The Bureau says swell’s on its way

Posted by: on May 31st, 2018

Hello Friends,

As of 0600 the MHL buoy was seeing 1.8 m of SSE swell at 9 seconds. Wind was west at 10-15 kts under clear skies. There were a couple of people hanging out at the point for the very rare waist high set. I couldn’t see anyone in the water at Kiddies or up toward No Mans. The Bureau’s hoisted a gale warning for the wind to go SW and ramp up into the 20-30 kt + range by this afternoon. The swell is supposed to track up with the increasing wind and it’s predicted to be in the 4-5 m range at south magnets by dark. Tomorrow looks pretty ordinary with a gale warning, showery weather and 4-6 metres (!!) of south swell. Tide will hit a 1.38 m high at 0925 and be back to low at 1500. There’s a 1.8 m high tide at 2130, so south facing stretches could see some serious sand transport action.
It looks as though we have to wait until Saturday-Sunday for the wind to move off the dead south setting… it’ll be very interesting to see the Goat’s thoughts this evening.
Stay happy and have a top old Thursday!

Tiny at Kiddies

Tiny at No Mans

There’s more where that came from…after a long wait a single catchable wave arrives at 0735

Weather Situation
A low pressure system over the southern Tasman Sea is deepening and very slowly moving east directing vigorous southerly winds and large powerful southerly swell along the New South Wales coast. Winds are expected to ease during Sunday as a high pressure ridge develops across the western Tasman Sea.

Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Gale Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Southwesterly 20 to 30 knots, reaching up to 40 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, increasing to 3 to 4 metres around midday.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres around midday, then increasing to 4 to 5 metres by early evening.
Weather
Mostly sunny morning. 60% chance of showers during this afternoon and evening.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions in the afternoon and evening are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Friday 1 June
Gale Warning for Friday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Southerly 30 to 40 knots.
Seas
3 to 4 metres.
Swell
Southerly 4 to 6 metres.
Weather
Cloudy. 90% chance of showers offshore, 50% chance elsewhere.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Saturday 2 June
Winds
Southerly 30 to 35 knots turning southwesterly 25 to 30 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, increasing to 3 to 4 metres offshore.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 5 metres, decreasing to 3 metres during the evening.
Weather
Cloudy. 60% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

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