Clean NE wind swell early

Posted by: on September 21st, 2019

Hello Friends,

After blowing hard into the late evening hours, the NEr had backed off to be NNE 10-12 kts by daybreak. It’ll kick back up again soon, so for the cleanest surface conditions, you want to hit it sooner rather than later. Size on sets at the best exposures were into the shoulder high range. You had to pick ’em though because although size at sea is 2 metres, the period is a weak 7 seconds. Tide was low at 0615 and will hit the high at 1250. Yesterday’s sunshine and minimal runoff saw Beachwatch declaring all but a few lagoon exit zones declared pollution free.

Outlook for the coming week appears to be for a steady decline to barely surfable by around Tuesday. Tomorrow will probably be in the waist high range and Monday it’s probably going to be closer to knee high at the better exposures. Some of the models show a bump up from the south around Thursday, so here’s hoping!

Have a top


Little bumps at Kiddies 0645

Longy picking up more than Dee Why 0645

Fun looking at Northy 0630

Weather Situation

A strong and slow-moving high pressure system near New Zealand extends a ridge towards New South Wales, bringing a return to northeasterly winds to all coastal waters. These winds will be fresh to strong today ahead of a cold front, which will bring a southerly change to the southern coast later today and to central parts on Sunday before stalling. A second front will follow on Monday, pushing the change to the Queensland border by Tuesday.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast
North to northeasterly 20 to 30 knots.
2 to 3 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Partly cloudy. The chance of a thunderstorm this evening.
Sunday 22 September
Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast
Northerly 20 to 30 knots shifting east to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots before dawn then decreasing to about 10 knots in the evening.
2 to 3 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Easterly 1.5 to 2 metres, tending northeasterly 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm in the morning.
Monday 23 September
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots.
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the afternoon.
Mostly sunny.

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