Energy but messy

Posted by: on October 9th, 2019

Hello Friends,

Breezy and offshore early under mainly cloudy skies (there’s a 60% chance of a shower). Wind was out of the west at 10-15 kts before 0830. At 0600 the MHL buoy recorded average swell height at 2.8 metres from the SSE at 11 seconds apart. Tide was high at 0630 and will be back to low at 1210.

Found myself needing to make a run to Dee Why, so grabbed a snap of a wave at the point. There were a few people in the water and as you can see, the set wave faces were head high and a bit. But for the most part the swell angle wasn’t really working and the crew were doing a lot of waiting for often pretty short little rides. Up the beach there were folks in the water chasing similar size stuff, but it looked kinda lumpy and fat (tide not withstanding). Talked to a guy who’d just come in and his assessment was that there were a few, but you had to chase them as it was kinda all over the place. So, definitely waves and for the early at least, not too wind affected.

Outlook is for the swell to hang in there through tomorrow, but mainly southerly wind and showery weather will dominate the mix.

Bomb set at the point 0850

Weather Situation
A deepening low pressure system over the Tasman Sea is bringing strong and gusty southerly winds to the Waters today. Meanwhile, a high pressure system over the Great Australian Bight extends a ridge to the southern Tasman Sea. The southerly winds are expected to ease Thursday as the low moves away to the east, and then tend more southeasterly or easterly Friday onwards as the high centre moves over the southern Tasman Sea.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Wednesday for Sydney Coast
Winds
South to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers.
Thursday 10 October
Winds
Southerly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to about 10 knots in the late evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 metre around midday.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers.
Friday 11 October
Winds
Southerly below 10 knots tending southeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.

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