Little grey Monday waves

Posted by: on December 23rd, 2019

Hello Friends,

Glassy knee to maybe stomach high little waves coming into the point this morning. It was a touch bigger looking along the beach, but it also seemed to be shutting down. Wind at North Head as of 0900 was SSW 5-6 kt. The MHL data from 0600 showed a mix of tiny, long period stuff from 30° and a broader area of mainly S-SSE (148° to 164°) stuff at an average period of 7 seconds. There seems to be some longer period stuff in that mix too, so that probably accounts for the soft but surfable stuff at the point, even though the buoy is showing average swell height of 1.6m. Should be bigger and more energetic at optimal exposures (eg Curly).

Wind is supposed to go around to the onshore quarters soon. Tide is currently dropping from the 1.7m high at 0645 to a lowish 0.4 m at 1315.

Weather should remain mostly cloudy as it warms to 25 with a 30% chance of a sprinkle. Water is 21C.

It looks as though this uptick in surf energy could stick around to Christmas Day…

Go well!

 

Three up and riding at the point 0830

SUP operators sweeping the sea for little bumps

Weather Situation
A weakening trough lies over the northern New South Wales coast, while a high pressure system is moving slowly across the southern Tasman Sea. This high will remain dominant in the region during the next few days, promoting a return to northeasterly winds in most coastal areas, apart from being briefly interrupted by two weak southerly changes over southern waters on Christmas Eve and Boxing Day.

Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
Easterly 10 to 15 knots, tending southerly inshore at first, and tending northeasterly throughout in the evening. Winds reaching up to 20 knots offshore during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Tuesday 24 December
Winds
Northeasterly 10 to 15 knots tending easterly in the middle of the day.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers.
Wednesday 25 December
Winds
Easterly 10 to 15 knots turning northeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. The chance of a thunderstorm in the afternoon.

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