Yeah, it’s crazy big

Posted by: on May 23rd, 2020

4.8,12,167d (6-10m at 10pm fri) 13-18kts w 0840 H, L 1420, water 21C

Hello Friends,
The swell peaked in the 6-10 metre range at 10 pm last night, but it hasn’t dropped back much. Average heights at sea were running close to 5 metres at 12 seconds from the SSE. As the pictures show, wave faces are pretty close to that size on the bigger ones. Tide is coming into the high at 0840 and will be back to low at 1420. Water’s sitting on 21C. Wind was west 13-18 kts.
There were a couple of insane people in the water at Dee Why, but the real crowds were around at Collaroy where you didn’t have to be a total hell person to paddle out. It’s still pretty big though and beginners should definitely give it a pass for a few days.
Hard to know how long the big stuff will last, but the Bureau’s posted large surf warnings through to Tuesday.
I’m going to grab the camera and go picture taking soon, so check back later to see what I found…

Piling in to Long Reef

Only crazy people in the water

A new left at the beach?

Way out the back

Couldn’t get in

South Narrabeen

Weather Situation
A deep and complex low pressure system over the western Tasman Sea is bringing vigorous south to southwesterly winds and large waves to much of the New South Wales coast. This system is expected to linger offshore for a number of days.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Westerly 25 to 30 knots turning southwesterly during the day. Winds reaching up to 40 knots in the early morning and again in the evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly 4 to 5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Cloudy. 95% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Sunday 24 May
Gale Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 30 to 40 knots turning southerly 30 to 35 knots early in the morning.
Seas
3 to 4 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly 4 to 5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy. 90% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm offshore.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Monday 25 May
Winds

Southerly 25 to 30 knots.
Seas
3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 2.5 to 3 metres during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon or evening.
Weather
Cloudy. 90% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

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