As predicted, the swell has started to build out at sea. It was 2.3 metres at 11 seconds from 174° (ie, dead south) as of 0715 but the call is for it to be 3-4 metres as we get to lunchtime. Wind was 11-17 kts from the WNW. That should swing to the W to SW as the swell builds. Weather should be sunny as we go to a maximum of 17C, which is a degree cooler than the current water temperature. Tide was low at 0600 and will be back to high at 1225. As the pictures show, it was knee to waist plus before 0800 and only a few people were in the water.
The models show the energy levels peaking quickly and then fading across the rest of the work week. Right now it looks as though today could be good for the fit and experienced. Tomorrow should be open to a few more riders and by Wednesday it should be fun for all at south magnets. Average periods don’t look like getting much above the 10-11 second mark, so surf options will be limited.
Have a top old day, and maybe check back later in case I’ve managed to get a picture or two…
Oh, and don’t forget the mask – if you haven’t had COVID-19, you’re just as vulnerable as you were when this all started.
A complex low pressure system with its main centre over the southern Tasman Sea is bringing strong south to southwesterly winds and large and powerful surf conditions to New South Wales waters. Conditions will gradually ease later today as the low moves away to the east and is replaced by a high pressure system. This high looks set to become the dominant feature over the state during the coming week, promoting a return to lighter winds.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Monday for Sydney Coast
West to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots. tending south to southwesterly 10 to 20 knots by the late morning.
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.
Southerly 2.5 to 3 metres, increasing to 3 to 4 metres around midday.
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Tuesday 25 August
Southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending southerly during the afternoon and evening.
Around 1 metre.
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Wednesday 26 August
South to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending south to southeasterly below 10 knots during the afternoon.
Around 1 metre.
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres.