Hello Friends,
Heaps of energy in the ocean this morning as the big south swell continues to rumble in. As of 1000 it was 4 m at 14 seconds and coming from 159° (SSE). As the pictures show, it’s well into the 2x overhead range on sets. There were makeable ones at the point, but the beach still too lined up to be surfed. Wind was WSW 7-1o kts at 1000 when I took the pictures. The hardy crew chasing them at the point had to deal with regular clean-up sets and more raw, sectiony stuff than clean open faces.
Today looks like being the peak size-wise, but it should still be pretty solid again tomorrow and well into the interesting size range on Wednesday. Wind speeds have dialled back and we look to be getting a more northerly inflection to the broadly westerly regime. The models currently show things fading back to small on Thursday and Friday, but then it looks currently as though we might get another little uptick for Saturday.
Quite the start to the winter surf season!
Go well, stay safe and know your limits.
Weather Situation
A high over western NSW extends a ridge over the coastal waters and will drift east in coming days. Hazardous surf will persist into the middle of the week, following the passage of a deep Tasman Low pressure system.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
- Winds
- Southwesterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 20 knots offshore during the morning. Winds decreasing to below 10 knots in the late afternoon.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre around midday.
- Swell
- Southerly 4 to 5 metres.
- Weather
- Partly cloudy.
- Caution
- Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Tuesday 14 June
- Winds
- West to northwesterly below 10 knots tending north to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots in the early afternoon.
- Seas
- Below 1 metre.
- Swell
- Southerly 2 to 3 metres inshore, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres offshore.
- Weather
- Mostly sunny.
- Caution
- Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Wednesday 15 June
- Winds
- Northwesterly 15 to 20 knots tending westerly during the evening.
- Seas
- 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon.
- Swell
- Southerly 2 to 2.5 metres.
- Weather
- Sunny.
