Posts in At large

Go looking this morning

Posted on July 10th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Another beautiful winter morning for Sydney – and waves to boot. Swell’s gone pretty straight south, but it’s 1.2 metres at sea and close to 12 seconds apart. Wind was WNW 7-10 kts when I checked at 0840. Tide’s low as I write this and is back to high at about 1510. Water’s clean and 19C – still.
Should be a few waist to maybe chest and a bit wave faces to be had at your fave south magnet. Swell’s set to decline steadily toward flatness at the end of the work week.
Wavewatch model says a south pulse could light up the joint on Saturday, but the ECM says naw, it’ll be tiny. Wavewatch shows a second, bigger south pulse (3m range) overnight Sunday into Monday, but fading quick to small for Tuesday. ECM says pulse is smaller and hits Monday late and fades late Tuesday…
Meanwhile we have a straight south pulse (likely from a hurricane off Mexico) just making it up to the surf zones immediately north from Ventura. A mate and I got some longboardable little waist-ish slides at a fickle spot called Hobson’s, pix below…

Weather Situation

A ridge of high pressure has become dominant over the coast. On Thursday, west to northwesterly winds will strengthen ahead of a cold front. Later on Friday and during Saturday strong southwesterly winds are forecast to extend along the New South Wales coast after the passage of another cold front.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds
Westerly 10 to 15 knots turning northwesterly 15 to 20 knots in the late morning and afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 metres offshore later in the evening.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Thursday 11 July

Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northwesterly 20 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots during the morning and early afternoon. Winds tending westerly in the middle of the day.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Friday 12 July

Winds
Northwesterly 15 to 25 knots increasing to 20 to 30 knots during the morning.
Seas
1 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southerly below 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

POSTCARDS FROM CALI

Leaning into one at Hobson’s today

Always a possibility in California

Looking south along the old highway from Hobson’s

Long wait for little south lines at Hobson’s

Time for lunch after surfin’

 


B1 and Bcool

Posted on July 9th, 2019 in At large.

Left home early this morning around 6.30am and in the low dawn light took this grainy photo of Bungan. Classic mild winter’s day ahead.

Observation: Noticeable change of swell direction around to the south. Weak looking waves on the low tide but should improve as the morning progresses.

Maybe a day to try somewhere different ……..like possibly Bilgola on the mid tide.

Bungan this morning


Should be a little something this morning…

Posted on July 9th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
10-15 kts if WSW as the day got started in Sydney. Swell’s about a metre at 10 seconds from the ESE. I’d say knee to waist at magnets. Tide’s low at around 0700 and will be back to high at 1310. Weather should be sunny with a high of 19 – same as the water. The Bureau has a warning for deceptively powerful surf, but I’m not seeing anything in the modelling on that front. Still looks as though it’ll get smaller for the rest of the week and maybe perk up on Sunday or thereabouts.

Weather Situation
A band of high pressure will continue to assert itself across the region, as a trough of low pressure to moves further in to the Tasman sea. Southwesterly winds remain in place in the wake of the trough and will freshen and tend westerly on Thursday ahead of a cold front.

Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
Winds
South to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots turning westerly 15 to 20 knots during the morning.
Seas
1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Caution
Surf conditions in the afternoon and evening may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Wednesday 10 July
Winds
Westerly 15 to 20 knots turning northwesterly in the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.
Caution
Surf conditions in the morning may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Thursday 11 July
Winds
Northwesterly 20 to 30 knots turning westerly 15 to 25 knots during the day.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

POSTCARDS FROM CALI…
Crazy uncrowded down south this morning. Sydney weekday size crowds (15-20) at Lowers, HB and astoundingly, Malibu. Dunno what’s going on… Not much of anything here in SB unfortunately.

Trestles shoulder plus rights and (long!) lefts for a crowd of less than 20!!!

California Street only just picking up the swell. Waist high on the better ones.

Campus no one out chasing this ankle to knee high line

Malibu!!!! Long lines with waist plus faces and only about 15 people on the inside. Amazing.

Huntington Beach pier northside chest high on sets and tiny crowd


Back on the B1

Posted on July 8th, 2019 in At large.

Nice, still morning. A few long (smallish) lines around. At the right time and tide somewhere will be sweet.

Just south of Newport ……. clean but shortish. More tide should help things along.


Wobbly and mostly small but not flat

Posted on July 8th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
A grey day in coastal California and it looked to be a grey start in Sydney as well. Swell was around 1.2 metres from the E by ESE at about 11 seconds apart and wind was coming lightly from the WNW. Size is probably going to be on the marginal side, but good exposures should have the odd chest high wave face I’d have thought.
Outlook remains for the energy levels to gradually fade to small to unsurfable by the end of the week according to both ECM and Wavewatch. Right now there seems to be a prospect of a reasonable pulse from around mid next weekend into the front half of next week… a long way out, so more a straw in the wind than anything…
There are a few postcards down the page, but the only places with waves are either 5 hours north or 5 hours south of here…
Have a top old Monday!

Weather Situation

A strong high pressure system over the western Tasman Sea is slowly moving northeast while a trough approaches from the west. This pattern has been directing east to southeasterly winds in the north, and northerly winds in the south. The trough will bring a south to southwesterly change to southern and central parts today and the north coast on Tuesday. Winds will tend west to northwesterly in the north later today ahead of the trough.

Forecast for Monday until midnight

Winds
Northerly 10 to 15 knots shifting west to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres around midday.
Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy. 70% chance of showers and the chance of a thunderstorm.

Tuesday 9 July

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots turning westerly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Southeasterly below 0.5 metres, tending southerly 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Wednesday 10 July

Winds
West to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending west to northwesterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the evening.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

POSTCARDS FROM CALI


Looking fun for the early

Posted on July 7th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Through the wonder of the Internet I can see that I’m really missing out this morning in Sydney. Conditions aren’t astoundingly good, but they do look fun with wave faces into the shoulder high range on a somewhat bumpy looking wind swell. It’s still coming from the east but has clicked down to around 1.5 metres at 10 seconds apart. High tide’s around noon and the forecast is for light and variable wind.

The models indicate a steady fading trend across the rest of the week, but then maybe next weekend you could see another pulse of interest.

Wish I could say the same for southern California…

 

Weather Situation

A strong high pressure system over the southern Tasman Sea is slowly moving east while a trough approaches from the west. This pattern is directing southeasterly winds in the north, and northerly winds in the south. The trough will bring a south to southwesterly change to southern and central parts on Monday and the north coast on Tuesday.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight

Winds
Variable about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Monday 8 July

Winds
North to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots turning west to southwesterly in the afternoon. Winds reaching up to 20 knots in the late afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers and the chance of a thunderstorm.

Tuesday 9 July

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to about 10 knots during the day.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
1st Swell
South to southeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

More tiny dribblers for the weekend crowd at Campus

High tide kinda doing in the little swell in Ventura

Lowers looking fun and with a crowd of only 25 – on a holiday weekend!


Onshore, showery morning for Sydney

Posted on July 5th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

The radar was showing a few scattered showers about – which is kind of what you expect with a forecast calling for a 90% chance of percipitation. North Head wind at North Head as of 0640 was 12-15 kts from the ESE. The MHL buoy was seeing 2 metres of east swell with periods ranging from 8-11 seconds. So, grey, onshore, very junky but sort of into the just surfable range if you are super extra keen. I reckon most would pass…

Outlook is for onshores until around Monday. With luck there will still be waves by then!

Postcards below…

Weather Situation

A strengthening high pressure system near Tasmania will slowly move east over the next several days directing east to southeasterly winds across the New South Wales waters. On the weekend, winds will slowly turn northerly as the high pressure system settles over the Tasman Sea and a trough approaches from the west.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Winds
Easterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 20 knots offshore early in the morning.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon.
Swell
Easterly 2 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers.

Saturday 6 July

Winds
East to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly 2 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres around midday.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 40% chance of showers.

Sunday 7 July

Winds
North to northeasterly about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers.

Not much surfwise in Santa Barbara, although I did get a few mal waves yesterday. Big excitement this morning when a slow and rolling earthquake got the chandeliers swinging at RealSurf’s Santa Barbara hangout. It hit out in the desert near the entrance to Death Valley National Monument, so very few folks near the epicentre. A similar size quake in the 1970s hit Silmar in the Los Angeles area where it resulted in deaths and injuries along with significant damage.

The big red dot upper right shows location of the 6.4 earthquake – which was felt all the way out to the coast

4th of July surf in Ventura – waist to chest on the incoming tide.

The Lane in Santa Cruz producing head high plusses across the slot, but not much inside of there.

4th of July at Campus point where they were seeing knee to waist high dribblers

 


Grey and junky onshore conditions today

Posted on July 4th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Well, looks pretty ordinary on the weather radar and cams this morning. According to the MHL data swell’s still around the 2 metre mark out at sea and coming from the E-ESE. But the average period is sub 10 seconds so you can expect messy and weak conditions which are made all the worse by 10-17 kts of SE wind. Eminently missable I would say.

The Goat should be along later today with a few thoughts on your prospects for the surf week ahead. From my reading of the runes, it could be Sunday before it switches back to great conditions again.

(postcards below Bureau’s bulletin…)

Weather Situation

A strengthening high pressure system near Tasmania will slowly move east over the next several days directing east to southeasterly winds across the New South Wales waters. On the weekend, winds will slowly turn northerly as the high pressure system settles over the Tasman Sea.

Forecast for Thursday until midnight

Winds
Southeasterly 15 to 20 knots turning easterly in the late afternoon.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
1st Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers.

Friday 5 July

Winds
Easterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 to 2 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers.

Saturday 6 July

Winds
Easterly 15 to 20 knots turning northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers

Not much swell in Santa Barbara today, but will go for a wander later…

Checking out Haskills pier tinies with my bro.

One of my fave stretches of coast – but not happening today

Campus point (the surf zone is right up at the tip, but during huge swell, you can make it all the way down to the corner)


Took the express to Mona Vale

Posted on July 3rd, 2019 in At large.

Day 3 of our ENE swell and there were some nice waves to be had at the start of the day. Early offshore winds, despite a predicted southerly, resulted in some clean 3-4’ peaks. Your correspondent paddled out at Mona around 6.45am and sampled a few. Occasional outsized sets swept though the take off area cleaning everyone up – showing this swell isn’t quite finished yet.

Clouds and wind have picked up now. Definitely one of those days where early risers were rewarded.

Mona Vale lighting up this morning


Getting scrappy in Sydney but still surfable

Posted on July 3rd, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Looks like you have waves again this morning along the beaches, but the 1.6 metre, 10 sec east swell is pretty lumpy and junky on the high tide (0830). You’re going to a high of 19 with 50% chance of the odd shower. Wind as of 0850 was light from the WSW, but a SE’r is expected soon…

Looks like the next three days will see a steady supply of waves, but also onshore winds. Onshore conditions should moderate Sunday and right now next week is looking sweet, with fun size waves and offshore wind…

 

Weather Situation

A strengthening high pressure system in the Bight will slowly move east over the next several days directing east to southeasterly winds across the New South Wales waters.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds
Southeasterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
1st Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Thursday 4 July

Winds
Southeasterly 15 to 25 knots turning easterly 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
1st Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 metres by early evening.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers.

Friday 5 July

Winds
Easterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Easterly 2 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers.

Postcards from Cali
Yay! I actually got wet for the first time on this visit. Caught a few weak knee to chest high bumps at Sands Beach, about 2 km east of Campus point. Hoping it picks up a little more overnight…

Little lines showing at California Street. It’s waist plus at the top of the break and ankle to knee way inside

Campus point was just a tiny bit bigger Tuesday afternoon as small pulse begins to be felt


 

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