Posts in At large

Postcards from Byron and beyond

Posted on May 16th, 2018 in At large.

Soft lines at Lennox this afternoon

Hangin’ out at Lennox, noon

The right equipment for the weak swell at Lennox

Famous lighthouse

North of the Wreck tiny longboard lines 0930

Riding these on a shortboard wasn’t nearly as fun. North of the Wreck 0930

Johnson’s shories were shutting down heavily but for a second or two…

The takeoff was the thing at Johnson’s 0900

Sole rider doing the soul ride at the Pass


Postcards from Lennox Head

Posted on May 16th, 2018 in At large.

Exiting one

In the corner at Lennox 0715

Stoked!

Lennox Head beach 0715

The odd wave at the Point

Jagging one before school

Swell close together and piling inat 0700

Taking the top off one at Lennox 0700


Postcards from up the coast

Posted on May 15th, 2018 in At large.

Crescent head early: high tide, inconsistent, fat, slow. Prob. much better on lower tide…

Bomb set & rider didn’t make the section. Crescent Head, 0735

 

Arrawarra 1135: Irregular sets in the knee to waist plus range, dozen out, weak and slow looking.


Wooli breakwater pretty but really small and well protected from the south wind. No one out. Size prob knee to knee plus…

Wooli up the beach a little peak trying to do something but failing 1300 Tuesday

Where I’ll be until Friday morning…


Flat early but later should be interesting

Posted on May 12th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Unsurfably tiny along the beaches at daybreak Saturday. I grabbed a few snaps between showers to document the flatness. However, as the MHL buoy shot below reveals, the swell should come up dramatically later today.

As Saturday kicked off the wind was 15-20 kts from the west. It should pick up and swing SW soon and pick up. The swell should be obvious at south swell magnets by early afternoon. At 0400 swell period down at Eden was in the 13-sec range. If the swell builds to the 2.5 – 4 metre range as predicted, there should be some pretty solid sets at dead south spots. This is one of those days when swell could hit some places dramatically while largely missing others. The more SW component, the less energy we’ll see.

Tide hit a 1.56 m high at 0535 and is dropping to a 0.47 m low at 1155.

 

 

 

Swell showing down south early

 

Nice cusping pattern along the beach

 

Northy stalwarts waiting at 0645

 

Zippo at Dee Why

 

Lone hopeful at No Mans 0640

 

Micro at the point as of 0640

Weather Situation

A complex low pressure system over the southwestern Tasman Sea will move towards the northeast today and direct a vigorous south to southwesterly change across the coastal waters. Winds are expected to gradually ease during Sunday and Monday as the low moves further east.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Westerly 25 to 35 knots turning south to southwesterly 25 to 40 knots in the late morning and early afternoon.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, increasing to 3 to 4 metres during the morning.
Swell
South to southwesterly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres around midday, then tending southerly 3 to 4 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Cloudy. 95% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Sunday 13 May

Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southerly 25 to 30 knots.
Seas
2.5 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning, then increasing to 3 to 4 metres later in the evening.
Weather
Cloudy. 95% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Monday 14 May

Winds
Southerly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2.5 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 3 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.

Mostly near flat but…

Posted on May 9th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Made the Manly run this morning and grabbed a few snaps on the way home. As you can see there are rideable sets. I’d call the biggest ones at Manly and Curly waist to chest but at Dee Why I saw at least one set that was near shoulder. The harsh reality is that you do a fair amount of waiting for them to turn up. Average size of the swell at sea as of 0700 was 0.9 m. It was coming from 149°, which is a good thing for lots of our beaches and the average period was sitting just a little under 14 seconds, which is just generally a good thing.
Wind is set to be light and variable this morning (it was coming from the west when I checked) and tide is currently dropping to a 0.6 m low at 0940. It’ll come back into a 1.3 m high at 1600. Should be sunny and a warm 25. UV’s losing its sting and is expected to be 4 from 1020-1320.
Checking the models, it would seem that we might have a smaller conditions tomorrow and then near flat Friday as the wind starts to pick up strongly ahead of a major south pulse overnight into Saturday morning. And then on Sunday it could go nuts as wind gets into the 20-30 kt range from the SSW and the dead south swell just goes stupid at 4-6 metres (depending on who you believe) at 12 seconds. Some models project the swell to be into the 3 metre range through Tuesday, and then it drops back into the 2 metre range to see out the week. Yikes! Looks like your correspondent chose an interesting week for another trip up the coast.
Have a great day everyone!

Finding the right line and stepping up – Dee Why beach 0840

 

Caught behind in a low tide shorey at Dee Why 0835

 

How it looked 99% of the time at Dee Why this am

 

Point too small to surf

 

Hmmmm….

 

Mid-Steyne at 0810

 

Bomb set at south Curly 0820

 

Queenscliff set 0810

Weather Situation

A trough over northern parts of the coast today moves east directing moderate southerly winds over the area, while elsewhere about the coastal waters a high pressure ridge results in northerly winds for the remainder of today. Northwest to southwesterly winds are expected to strengthen on Thursday and Friday as a significant cold front crosses New South Wales, and a complex low pressure system is expected to form as this front moves across Bass Strait. This low is forecast to linger off the southern New South Wales or eastern Victorian coast until later on the weekend.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds
Variable about 10 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
1st Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres later in the evening.
2nd Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Weather
The chance of a shower or thunderstorm offshore this morning. Mostly sunny afternoon.

Thursday 10 May

Winds
West to northwesterly about 10 knots tending north to northwesterly 15 to 20 knots in the morning then then shifting west to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots in the evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres by early evening.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
2nd Swell
East to northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Friday 11 May

Winds
West to northwesterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
Swell
East to northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm in the afternoon and evening.

Close to perfect flatness

Posted on May 5th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Distinctly cool this morning at daybreak. Wind was lightly offshore early and it’ll be sunny all day as we head to a high of 22. As the pictures show, there are only the tiniest of tiny ripples coming in. If you’re really keen and have something buoyant, it’s possible to get the odd knee high bump that may even run a few metres. But for the most part it’s not really surfable in any meaningful sense. And, it looks as though we’re going to be stuck in this pattern for another 4 or 5 days. It’s a classic winter flat spell.

The long range models are currently showing a south swell event filling in from around Friday and lasting potentially into the early part of the following week. If the forecast pans out, we could see 3+ metres at south magnets. Of course at 7 days out, a lot can change, so just pencil it in for now.

Have a great Saturday one and all!

Lifeguard hut left (faded a few seconds later)

 

Screaming wall peels into Longy

 

Utterly flat at the point 0640

 

Looking for a bump at Longy

 

Northy showing the faintest of faint lines

 

Good morning!

Weather Situation

A cold front and south to southwesterly change is moving along the far north coast this morning and then over the Tasman Sea as a high pressure ridge pushes across the state. This ridge will cause winds about central parts to become variable over the weekend. By Monday winds are expected to turn northerly as the high pressure system moves over the Tasman Sea.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to about 10 knots in the middle of the day then becoming easterly in the afternoon.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Sunday 6 May

Winds
West to northwesterly below 10 knots becoming north to northeasterly in the afternoon.
Seas
Below 0.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Monday 7 May

Winds
Northerly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly below 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

On the road

Posted on April 30th, 2018 in At large.

Out of sight of the ocean this morning but it’s possible I will post something later. Have a great day one and all.


Clean but showery early

Posted on April 28th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Wind was SW for the early session this morning. The showers were coming through frequently and the 0700 1.7 m high tide was taking a toll on the inconsistent 7-sec period 2 metre SSE wind swell. There were a few people in the water at Northy, at south Narrabeen and Dee Why. In all cases it seemed kind of setty, but wave faces were into the chest plus range and maybe bigger on the bombs.
The wind is set to swing around to the south to SE and push up into the 15-20 kt range. So, get in before it switches or contend with junky conditions.
Swell should stay at about the current intensity through tomorrow before fading out to marginal toward midweek.
Have a great Saturday everyone!

Some energy

 

First light rider at the point 0625

 

High tide peak at No Mans

 

Head high peak at Northy 0640

 

Thumping shorey at south Narrabeen

 

Showery skies as the day starts

 

Hmmm, maybe not

Weather Situation

A slow-moving high pressure system is centred over western Victoria, while a complex low moves across the Tasman Sea. This pattern is bringing fresh to strong southerly winds to most New South Wales waters today. The high will drift slowly east during the next few days, accompanied by a gradual easing of coastal winds. By Tuesday it is expected to be over the Tasman Sea, with most areas likely to see a shift to northerly winds through the second half of the week.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 metres, tending southeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers inshore, 50% chance elsewhere.

Sunday 29 April

Winds
Southerly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 70% chance of showers.

Monday 30 April

Winds
Southerly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers.

Smooth but tiny early

Posted on April 21st, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Masses of grey cloud off to the south when I checked conditions around 0630 but the forecast south wind hadn’t yet arrived and the ocean was looking smooth and clean. It won’t last though because the forecast is calling for 10-15 kts of s-se later.  Swell at 0500 was coming from the SSE at 13 seconds apart but only a metre out at sea. As the pictures show, it’s not making much of an impression on our beaches. Sets at magnet spots were struggling to get above the knee high mark. And they were pretty few and far between.

Tide was low at 0625 and is now heading to a 1.37 m high at 1235. We should see a high around 24° and water has cooled to 20°.

The MHL’s modelling is projecting surf conditions to bump along at about the current intensity for at least another 2-3 days. But thereafter the models are starting to look rather interesting, particularly as we get toward Thursday-Friday. The swell looks interesting I should say, because the current projections indicate a feisty ECL in close to the coast (ie blasting wind and showery skies).

Have yourself a top old Saturday one and all!

 

 

Optimist wading out at south Narrabeen 0645

 

All’s quiet at Narrabeen

 

Saturday sunrise

 

No man’s

 

Northy producing knee to waist high bumps at 0640

 

Butterbox

 

Dee Why point with one acolyte waiting hopefully for a bump

 

No Mans just barely doing it 

Forecast issued at 4:10 am EST on Saturday 21 April 2018.

Weather Situation

A high pressure system near Tasmania extends a ridge into southeast New South Wales, while a trough lies just off the northern coast. This pattern is bringing southeast to northeasterly winds to most coastal areas, with little change expected through the next few days.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching 20 knots offshore during the morning.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Sunday 22 April

Winds
Southeasterly about 10 knots becoming east to northeasterly in the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Monday 23 April

Winds
Westerly about 10 knots becoming northeasterly around midday.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Southerly morning

Posted on April 17th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Saw Curly and then Dee Why around 0900-ish this morning. The sky was darkening and the south wind was bumping it up, but there are definitely head plus sets coming in. Problem is that they seemed to be really slow and gutless. THe HML buoy was showing 12 seconds, so not sure what’s going on. Maybe it’s the 1.65 m high tide at 0900…
Hardly anyone in the water at south Curly, but it looked like a fair amount of work for slow and sloppy overhead wave faces. 20+ in the water at the point and a few scattered up the beach from there at Dee Why. Again, choppy, lumpy and ponderous is how I’d describe it.
Swell is set to build to 3 metres out at sea and the wind should be 15-25 kts from the S-SW. So not utterly hopeless if you’re keen.
Tomorrow the wind is supposed to be more SE-NE across the day, but not blowing as hard as the forecast for today.
Swell ought to stick around too and then it declines on Thursday while wind goes north. Right now from Friday onward into the front half of next week looks like being really small to flat on most of the models.
Have yourself a grand Tuesday one and all!

Bomb set at point

Bump showing on the bombies at 0910

Moment of suck up speed

Wind south at south Curly

Sizable but slow sets at south Curly

Trying to keep it going at the point


 

Page optimized by WP Minify WordPress Plugin