Posts in Editor’s picks
On Sunday evening 10 November, Living Ocean will be holding a ‘Gypsea’ party at Bilgola Beach Surf Club. This will be the event of the year on the local social calendar. Hosted by David Koch, and sponsored by Taittinger Champagne, the event will raise money for Sea Shepherd Australia’s 2013/4 Southern Ocean campaign, Operation Relentless. There are plenty of great prizes to be won and amazing auction items, including a four day passage on one of the Sea Shepherd ships. Feast on food prepared by local celebrity chef George Francisco.
Kochy will be interviewing Bob Brown (Chairman, Sea Shepherd Australia) , Jeff Hansen (CEO, Sea Shepherd Austrlalia) and Peter Hammarstedt (Skipper of the Southern Ocean Campaign).
There will be a great line-up of world class performers and musicians to rock the house including legends like Angry Anderson, Diana Rouvas, Randall Waller, Gordon Reitmeister and Joel McDonald brought to you by Paul Christie’s Rockhouse.
Tickets are available online at www.livingocean.org.au/events/
Living Ocean is an Australian registered charity founded in Whale Beach in 2010. Through community events involving our ocean loving community of surfers, artists, divers, sportspeople, yoga practitioners and others, Living Ocean raises funds and awareness for ocean environmental causes.
Vids we like.
A new angle on this supernaturally perfect, mile-long left…
Vids we like.
You want big? You want stooopid big and freezing cold? Check out these seasick waves from last weekend
Warning, no steady cam For those who haven’t seen this vantage point and aren’t prone to motion sickness here are some clips from the first two heats of the Mavericks contest this last weekend. …
Vids we like.
Interesting 9-min video of surfin’ in Thurso region. Waves look kinda like the NSW south coast… but a bit colder!
California, Vids we like.
Great forum threads, Surf culture.
Had to share this post with a wider audience… Hatchman is one of the RealSurf Forums’ more frequent contributors and I reckon this is gold…
Re: Bombora – History of Australian Surfing
Post by Hatchman » Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:51 am
steve shearer wrote:Mostly surfers get to a certain age and quit, move inland, get fat or accept surfing as a part-time recreational activity to be done on the weekend, usually in crowds of other competitive individuals.
Hardly a spiritual pursuit
By that logic you’d say that unless you were going to church more than once a week you would hardly call it a spiritual pursuit?
No offence Steve but your “holier surfer than thou” rants are starting to get a bit tiresome. Like many I would love to be able to surf 4 or more times a week, live in a coastal shack looking over a barrelling point break and be able to take regular trips to Indo. Back in the real world (where most of us live) where we’ve got kids, mortgages and bills to pay 5 days (and sometimes more) a week (not to mention all the stuff for family and friends we need to do on the weekend i.e. we’ve got a lot of responsibilities) that 2 hour slot I and many other weekend warriors squeeze in at the sparrows fart on a Saturday or Sunday morning while most of the world is asleep is a damn fine spiritual experience and hardly one we consider a “recreational pursuit”.
Sitting in the lineup on a fine Victorian Sunday winter morning braving the wind chill as it howls in my ears turning the sea into a boiling choppy beast while rubbing my calf muscles to keep them from cramping into golf balls as the water temps drop into single digits does require a spiritual dedication bordering on fundamentalism I can assure you. Because no ‘normal’ person would do it after a week spent in a cube farm – coiled up in a ball on the couch with a coffee and a gut full of fried eggs and bacon watching the footy does sound like a lot more like it.
However rather strangely, like many of my fellow Vicco bretheren, I actually love it with a fervour bordering on fanaticism because I cherish every moment in the surf as a way of connecting, in spirit, back to the ocean as it is the place I love to be. I find it both deeply beautiful and profound sitting out at sea in a Victorian winter, coated head to toe in rubber, staring at the sky turning into various shades of darker grey watching the storm fronts roll in off Bass Strait as the rain pelts my face all the while saying gday to the occasional seal or dolphin that swims by before turning and taking the drop down a nice big fat wall.
Don’t tell me it is a recreational pursuit mate, I need my surfing to live and I’ll love it no matter how often I do it and in what ever conditions mother earth will grant to me. Because when you love it that much it goes much deeper into the core of your being and it becomes an essential part of you that can never be changed.
Absence or fasting makes the heart grow fonder and the devotion run deeper – maybe you need to consider this to understand the depth of spiritual feeling it can generate in people like me as well. 💡
Contests, News Stories, Surf News, Top stories, Video, Vids we like.
Margaret River, Western Australia — DANIEL Ross (AUS/NSW/Yamba) has won the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) six star prime rated Drug Aware Pro defeating fellow North Coast NSW Australian surfer Adam Melling in clean 3 to 4 feet (1.25m) surf at Margaret River in Western Australia today.
It was Ross’s biggest career victory and could not have come at a better time for the powerfully built surfer who fell short of requalifying on the ASP World Dream Tour last season and also recently lost his major sponsorship deals!
“ I was so pumped to win this event and I can’t believe how good I feel right now” said an elated Ross after his win.
“I’ve made the semi’s the last two years here and I knew coming here I was a really good chance to win, I’ve trained hard leading into this event and it has really paid off for me in a big way.”
“Without a major sponsor the cash that comes with winning ($US20 000) will make my year of competing that much easier and I wanted to prove to everyone out there right now that I am worth sponsoring and capable of big results!”
Ross surfed the ASP Dream Tour last year but failed to requalify. Today’s result has him exceptionally well placed for requalification this year.
“That’s my aim for sure and now I’m winning I want to get on a roll and string together a lot more excellent results.”
With the lead see sawing in a high scoring quality final, Melling opened with an excellent 8.67 ride and looked to have control when he backed that ride up shortly after with a strong 6.07 ride.
Ross opened with a 6.77 score, remained patient and found the finals best ride when he scored an outstanding 9.43 at the twenty minute stage of the 30 minute final.
Ross unleashed all his power on this ride combining two massive bottom to top turns sending fans of spray high off the wave and it was immediately clear to the large crowd on the hills of Margaret River that he had taken the lead with that ride.
While Melling searched for an achievable 7.54 to regain the lead, he fell on a few critical turns late in the final and was forced to settle for second on a score line for each surfers top two scoring rides of 16.20 (out of a possible 20) for Ross and 14.74 to Melling.
Melling’s second place today is the second time he has finished runner up in an ASP prime 6 star event.
“It’s disappointing not to win but Rossy is a great guy and I’m really stoked for him today” said Melling.
“Having made the finals twice I now really want to win one of these events; my start to the season has been great but there’s still a lot of work ahead to qualify for next year’s Dream Tour – that’s my goal and I have to remain focused because the season has really just started.”
Despite being disappointed at not winning, Melling’s good early season form see’s him as the number one rated surfer on the ASP World Qualifying Series Ratings ahead of Brett Simpson (USA) , Dion Atkinson (AUS) with Ross in fourth place.
In what turned out to be a dominating day for the Australian surfers, with all Australian semi finalists, Luke Munro (AUS/Gold Coast) and Dion Atkinson (AUS/SA) placed equal 3rd both picking up valuable 2625 rating points along with $US2950.
Both Atkinson and Munro have firm goals to qualify for the ASP Dream Tour for next year.
“I’m really happy with my start to the season, 5th last week in Tasmania and 3rd here is a great start to my season” said Atkinson.
“That’s two ‘keepers’ already to the season in my aim to qualify and that is a lot better than most other surfers this early in the season so I’m feeling great”
For most of today’s finalists their next stop on the ASP World Qualifying Series will be South Africa in mid April for the Quiksilver Pro presented by Virgin Mobile in Durban, another six star prime event.
Veteran Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Dream Tour surfer Melanie Redman-Carr (AUS/WA/Dunsborough/33 years of age) won her fourth Drug Aware Pro at Margaret River defeating rising Hawaiian star Coco Ho (17 years old/North Shore Ohau) in clean 1.25m (3 to 4 feet) surf.
Redman-Carr’s local knowledge and experience at the break saw her select the superior waves in the final which she won comfortably with a combined top two wave final score tally of 12.60 To Ho on 7.67.
“I have really surprised myself winning here today” said Redman-Carr.
“The younger emerging girls here have been ripping and I was sure I’d be eliminated in the opening quarter final today when I faced Carissa Moore (Haw); she has been the form surfer all week and I thought she’d win the event”
“The waves were really fun out there today and I’m sure my local knowledge helped out a lot” added Redman-Carr.
Redman-Carr opened with a 5.83 ride and was never seriously challenged by Ho who had difficulty finding the right waves to deliver any high scores at all.
Redman – Carr sealed the final with 3 minutes remaining when she used her priority on a clean righthand breaking wave, scoring the finals top scoring ride of a 6.77.
That left Ho chasing a very difficult 8.10 and with no waves in the final few minutes the 2009 Drug Aware title was Redman-Carr’s.
Redman- Carr’s experience includes finishing second on the ASP World Tour on two occasions, the last time in 2006 and she officially retired from full time professional surfing this year following the birth of her daughter Willow last year.
Being a local girl with an affinity to the surf here at Margaret River she accepted a wildcard into this event and went on to win $US 4000 in prize money.
Drug Aware Pro Margaret River is the biggest ASP World Qualifying Series Six Star Prime Rated event in the world. Prize money totalling $US145 000 and essential prime rated points on the ASP World Qualifying Series ensures an outstanding field of the world’s best surfers. A field of more than 250 surfers representing countries such as New Zealand, Tahiti, Hawaii, USA, Peru, Brazil, South Africa, France, Spain, England, Portugal, Reunion Island, Canary Islands, Japan and Israel will be competing with some of Australia’s best surfers across the week long event
Great forum threads, Surf culture.
I reckon Zingomar’s post is a good ‘un. -Don
Why we surf – an attempt to articulate it in depth
Post by zingomar » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:21 pm
After watching Bombora (which I enjoyed) I was left feeling that no-one really pinned down the many dimensions of why we love to surf. So here goes my try in no special order:
1. The primitive thrill of the hunt:
i.e. the search – going out hunting for surf, scoring a session or wave for personal satisfaction and to show off and to bring back to tell and impress the tribe.
2. The primitive desire to explore and wander
We evolved to wander the globe and find new areas and places. We still love this – new spots, new countries with surf as a meaningful and exciting goal – what is over the hill or around the bend may be genuinely exciting. Most tourists wander from destination to destination with a sesne of going through the motions and are thinking about what is for lunch. Surfers travel with excitement
3. The desire to show off in a dramatic way
Waves provide a stage that is missing for most of us in day to day lives. Being on a wave you stand out and are watched by paddlers and those on the beach. We may pretend we don’t care to be seen but we do. Getting tubed or pulling off a big move gives a little moment of being centre stage. How often do you get a hoot in life outside surfing??
4. The visual beauty – waves can create some amazingly appealing visuals that few other sports can begin to come near (skiing, diving, rock climbing come a bit close)
One reason the surf industry can be so successful is that the visuals of waves and surfers are so strong and “cool”. Streetwear, skate fashion imagery etc just can’t compete with the appeal sun surf and beach.
5. The ability to wrap oneself in the beauty of nature – see, feel, hear and taste it
Most visual beauty is something you see rather than experience. In surfing you can wrap yourself in it, touch, feel ride and get thrashed about by it. Sex is one of the few other things where you can get so involved in beauty (if you are lucky)
6. The sensation of weighting and unweighting and subtle direction changes at speed
Roller coaster designers have long known these thrills but recently discovered that subtle weighting and unweighting while in motion give humans a lot of pleasure – more so that radical direction changes. Surfing is full of this as you weave up and down a wave
7. The ability to taste and overcome real fear without life and death being at stake and with a soft landing
Surfing can confront you with all sorts of fear situations in heavy waves and big waves with just a short paddle from the beach. Our ancestors would have hunted or escaped from wild animals both hating and loving the fear sensation then and later around the camp fire as stories are told. Surfing can do the same at a host of levels.
8. Scarcity of the peak experience
For most of us the peak experiences of pefect waves are rare and it is hard to totally get your fill. So often you want more or had a fleeting taste of a new level of speed or a deeper tube and want it again. Wanting draws you back. The average surf is not magical but the peak moments definitely are.
9. Waves are ephemeral – they disappear
Familiarity breeds contempt, so the fact that you can’t sit a wave in your living room for years so that it gathers dust and becomes just another object perpetuates their appeal.
10. Hanging out with mates with a purpose and something in common that gives you stories to tell and adventures to share
11. The sense of achievement from learning new skills and pulling off good moves
Surfing wraps all of the above together to make it unique and hard to be matched in any other human activity.
At large, Cams today, Editor's picks.
It may be dire in Sydney today, but those of you up north, particularly in Queensland, are doing rather well.
Watch ’em and weep:
Coastalwatch Noosa cam: lotsa lines for the mals
Swellnet Snapper: what can you say, but line land?
Coastalwatch Byron: ought to be enough for everybody today
Editor's picks, Late night tunes.
5 years before Boy George…
I think at least 3 of the NY Dolls are now deceased
Doctors of Madness – one of the overlooked bridges between glam & punk
I guess Jim Skafish remains outside, and it isn’t just his nose, either