Posts in Postcard

Micro Thursday and a postcard from Cali

Posted on April 11th, 2013 in At large, California, Postcard, Santa Barbara.

That's tiny!
Hello Friends,

Another day of abject tininess for Sydney. Beautiful otherwise, but with half a metre of 10 sec period east swell, there will be next to nothing for surfers. The sad news is that from my reading of the charts, tomorrow will be flat and Saturday may only see the slightest uptick. But from late Sunday there could be some real hope of actual waves. Be interesting to hear what the Goat thinks…

Postcard from Cali
Today’s postcard (below) was taken of the paddocks between the freeway and one of my favorite surf zones, Naples (you won’t find the name on a map) west of Goleta. My mates and I have been following the path to the beach through the head high mustard plants (now a sea of yellow with spring blooms) for close to 40 years. But today there was a rent-a-cop in a strange little vehicle (see pic) waiting at the fence to make sure we didn’t come through.

Californians are allowed to walk below the high tide line on all but a few military reservations. However, you have to get to the high tide line. There are many places like this where private property cuts off access for many kms at a time. We’re lucky in Australia that public access to our beaches is not nearly so difficult.

Keep Out!

Weather Situation
A weak cold front is bringing a southerly change to the southern New South Wales coast today, while a ridge of high pressure remains to the north. Another high pressure system, to the west of Tasmania, will shift into the Tasman Sea behind the front, maintaining a ridge across much of New South Wales through the next few days. During Saturday a trough is expected to develop off the Queensland coast then move south to southeast deepening rapidly as is reaches the Tasman Sea. Also during the weekend another weak southerly change is forecast to affect the south.
Forecast for Thursday until midnight
Winds
North to northwesterly about 10 knots tending northeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the afternoon.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
East to northeasterly below 1 metre.
Friday 12 April
Winds
Northerly 10 to 15 knots tending northeasterly in the morning.
Seas
Up to 1 metre.
Swell
Southeast to southwesterly around 1 metre.
Saturday 13 April
Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
East to southeasterly around 1 metre, tending southerly 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.


Micro Wednesday in Sydney

Posted on April 10th, 2013 in At large, California, Postcard, Santa Barbara.

0800 unsurfable

POSTCARD FROM CALI: The Pit, Santa Barbara CA, around midday. Gutless windswell with occasional moments of semi-speed.
The Pit booming with soft windswell

Hello Friends,

Looking at Sydney via the WRL cam shot this morning, I can see that exactly as foretold in the forecast, there is next to nothing going on. What little energy there is, is coming from the E by ESE at about 10 seconds apart. But it’s about half a metre on average, so even at exposed spots on optimal tide, you’ll be struggling to find anything much above the knee high mark.

According to the dear old BoM, the outlook (see below) is for further direness right through to Friday night. Some swell modelling is showing the possibility of a little very long period south swell for Saturday morning. This looks like maybe delivering waist plus at the best south swell spots. But, as always, your mileage may vary.

Meanwhile, your postcard from Cali today is of Santa Barbara junk wind swell spot, the Pit. An utterly forgettable beachy 99% of the time, this morning saw it delivering chest plus faces. They were very weak though. People were struggling to generate any real speed beyond their first turns. And most waves just dumped over anyway. Not exactly happening. Word reached me that there were little waves at the famous Rincon, but I couldn’t get away to check… our outlook is a bit better than Sydney’s in that there is at least the hope of a little wave or two over the next few days.

Have yourself a great Wendnesday one and all!

Weather Situation
A broad high pressure ridge south of the continent will direct a weak onshore airstream over New South Wales through until the middle of the week. On Wednesday the ridge will move north and the wind over southern NSW waters will turn offshore for a period. A weak southerly change is expected to affect southern coastal waters on Thursday as a low pressure trough moves through this region.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
Winds
Variable about 10 knots becoming northeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the late afternoon then tending northerly in the late evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly about 1 metre.
Weather
The chance of thunderstorms this morning.
Thursday 11 April
Winds
Northerly 10 to 15 knots turning northeasterly in the early afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres later in the evening.
Swell
Easterly 0.5 metres.
Friday 12 April
Winds
Northerly 10 to 15 knots turning northeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning.
Seas
Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the evening.
Swell
Easterly 0.5 metres tending southerly 1 metre from midday.


Postcard from Cali & a few thoughts on Sydney surf prospects

Posted on April 8th, 2013 in Big Picture, California, Postcard, Santa Barbara.

WRL cam @ 0700

Tajiquas, California

Hello Friends,

Sorry about the silence from your humble servant. I’m back on the other side of the planet again on family business. Looks like you’ve had nice little waves in Sydney, but I’m thinking from the look of the WRL cam at south Narra, it’s not going to be too red hot today for you.

There’s hardly any swell showing on the MHL buoy. When I checked it at about 1000, the average height at sea was less than a metre at 8 seconds from the SE. And judging from the Bureau’s latest call, there isn’t much prospect of a significant improvement over the next three days. And, if the latest swell modelling is right, there won’t be much of anything for the coming week (or more).

Meanwhile Santa Barbara’s not a lot better than Sydney. We’re having strong wind for the next few days, so yours truly probably won’t be getting wet. Water temps are around the 15 degree mark which, like the wind, is pretty typical for this place in April. Unusually warm here too. Tossed in a snap I took up north of Santa Barbara on a stretch of coast that sometimes gets a little wind swell wave under these conditions. Sadly, today wasn’t really firing up at all.

Oh and here’s the latest marine forecast from the Bureau…

Have a great Monday!

Weather Situation
A broad high pressure ridge will linger over New South Wales directing a weak onshore airstream.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
South to southeasterly about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly about 1 metre.
Weather
Isolated thunderstorms offshore.
Tuesday 9 April
Winds
Variable about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly about 1 metre.
Wednesday 10 April
Winds
North to northeasterly about 10 knots increasing to 10 to 15 knots during the evening.
Seas
1 metre of less.
Swell
Easterly about 1 metre.


Postcard from micro Malibu

Posted on January 17th, 2013 in At large, California, Postcard.

A day spent driving that took me past Malibu…

(Below: SUP riders poking around at ankle high Malibu.)
da-bu_2398

(Below: the pier at Malibu)
bu-pier_2394

(Below: odd scene in Oxnard south of Ventura)
oxnard_2414


Postcard from Cali: little in Santa Barbara too

Posted on April 17th, 2012 in California, Postcard, Santa Barbara.

Hello Friends,

After looking at the MHL data for Sydney this morning (1 metre of 5 sec period south wind chop) and the BoM’s wind report (15-20 kts of SSE), I was unsurprised to see it looking pretty paltry on the cams. Looks like an excellent day to get some work done.

You might want to actually, because later in the week is looking pretty interesting wave wise for Sydney. Could be some big east swell filling in from about Weds onward. Looks like it’ll be strongly onshore at first, but by Friday the north corners could be coming into play … ya lucky pups!

Over on this side of the planet, well, in Santa Barbara anyway, the weather was mild, sunny and windless. It was also, but not quite, waveless. About a metre of WNW wind swell was coming in at a spot called Sands beach (imaginative name eh?) and myself, Roberto (old hands will remember our erstwhile Puerto Rico reporter) and childhood pal PQ went in for a paddle about on mals. Actually jagged a few in the waist high range too. But is the water cold. I reckon it was at best 12-13.

I’m currently without a water camera so no pictures of our amazing triumphs of wave riding skill to share, but I did take a snap to remember the day by…


Postcard from Cali: fading west wind swell

Posted on April 16th, 2012 in Postcard, Santa Barbara.

Hello Friends,

Your jet-lagged correspondent had the opportunity to see beaches from Malibu to north of Rincon this morning and can report that it was mostly waist high to smaller along much of the coast as a little west wind swell ebbs away. Water was brown most places thanks to 50mm of rain a couple of days ago and waves generally looked on the slow side for shortboarding. The honourable exception was Rincon, where it looked as though there might be a shoulder high set with a little push every now and then.

Which, judging from the latest MHL data, is more than could be said for Sydney just a the moment!

On the other hand, the water temperature here is around 12-14, so, tiny as it may be in Sydney, at least you don’t have to rubber up like a deep sea diver if you feel like messing around with a high displacement water toy.

Go well!


Postcard from Sawtell

Posted on April 8th, 2011 in At large, Postcard.

Barry, aka The Beach Defender of HPFM was in Sawtell this morning. He tells me he grabbed the shot in a rare sunny break between the showers…. looks pretty tasty…

He said there were about half a dozen in the water and that sets were into the shoulder high range. Lucky pups!


Postcard from Tim

Posted on January 18th, 2011 in Postcard.

Surf film shooter Tim Bonython sent us this from yesterday at Kirra. Cyclone Vania may have been pretty tame down this way, but look at those lines… and just imagine if they were makeable when they hit the point… there’d be a zillion keen surfers all over ’em!


Postcard: Eukai Beach yesterday

Posted on November 30th, 2010 in Postcard.

Tim Bonython’s on the North Shore for the start of the season and he sent us a little postcard…


Postcard from Redhead

Posted on November 26th, 2010 in Postcard.

Hello Friends,

Had an opportunity to tag along on a run to lovely Newcastle this morning. Didn’t take the board because I figured it would be pretty tiny. And it was along the steel city’s beaches as it turned out.

On the way back, we went out to Redhead for a look. I’ve never checked this particular beach before. It’s a nice set up too. There were a few folks in the water chasing some waist high little crunchers. Definitely bigger than anything we saw in Newcastle and a few of them looked positively fun it has to be said.

Here’s a snap of a snap…


 

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