"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris

Postcard from Rincon

This attractive, rather painterly snap was taken by my good mate Paul with his phone while standing at Rincon a few hours ago. Too bad he’s off to Hawaii now because Southern California is just about to light up big time thanks to some very serious winter swell. Mind you, it’s not exactly going to […]

Postcard from Clovelly

Was over in the eastern suburbs to do an interview for my mag. Got their early and went for a quick snorkle at Clovelly (where I’ve never been before). What a nice setup – even if there’s no chance of a wave.

La Conchita sesh

Hello Friends, Swell perked a little over on this side of the pond. Got into the chest high range at some spots in northern Ventura county, but the tide was fighting it every step of the way. Water was exceptionally warm for this late in the year. I reckon it was pushing 19 at La […]

Tiny ones at the ‘con

Hello Friends, Just another little postcard for ya from sunny southern California. Sounds like our weather’s not dissimilar to Sydney’s. “Surf” seems a pretty close match as well. A couple pals and I would not be put off, so we grabbed longboards and headed down to Rincon. Only three people in the water when we […]

heat is on in southern California

Hello Friends, Looks as though Sydney should have southerly conditions this morning, at 0545 there was 10-15kt of south wind and the swell was an into the useful range 2 metres at 9 seconds apart from the south. Semi-protected south corners ought to have at least something rideable. Should clear up as the day goes […]

went surfin’

Hello Friends, Oh, that MHL buoy doesn’t look too flash. Primary swell direction is showing as SSW. Must be heading off to NZ… Could be a little something on offer for the Saturday early risers though – if… if the swell goes back to the south that is… Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port […]

little swell makes itself felt… in SoCal…

In the past 24 hours Santa Barbara has had about 20% of its annual rainfall. And the water really looks like it at Campus Point to the west of Santa Barbara. But there are some short period looking west swell waves getting in. They’re really slow and sluggish looking for the most part, but every […]

Rainy days

Hello Friends, Looks as though early risers will find a Thursday morning of marginal quality in Sydney. It’s still dark as I write this and the winds are relatively light out of the NW. Swell is sputtering along at about a metre from the south east with a weak 7 second average period. There’s nothing […]

In soCal

Hello Friends, Back from a trip to the high desert of California. Apparently I missed no waves. Sydney for Weds is looking like a case of desperate conditions for desperates only. Swell’s down around the one metre mark at about 9 seconds from the SE. From over the horizon I’m guessing knee to waist high […]

Postcard from CA

Hello Friends, Thought I’d drop a line from the other side of the planet. Looks like conditions in Sydney are less than lovely this morning with SSW’ly wind hammering along at 20-40 kts and a thunderous 5 metre south swell (9 metres out at sea). Yikes! From the look of the WRL cam at Flight […]