"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris

Quieter, but not gone

Hello Friends,

0715: not stunning quality, but there are one or two waves about.
0715: not stunning quality, but there are one or two waves about.

It’s smaller and less consistent this morning at Dee Why. Not much wind to speak of though, and there seem to be a few chest high sets still in the mix. But yesterday’s quality is, well, yesterday.

The size of the swell at sea and the direction are still pretty much what they were yesterday, ie about 2 metres from the SE. The big difference is in that all important period setting. The latest MHL combined plot is showing that average period started falling at Batemans Bay around lunchtime yesterday. It dropped from 12 sec to closer to 7 sec in the space of about 8 hours. The Sydney trace mirrored this trend (but around 6 hours later) and this morning is seeing an average period of 8 seconds in our region. The good thing where we’re concerned is that the period seems to be on the improve again. Eden’s almost back to 10 sec, Batemans Bay is at 9 and we’re on 8. Looks better up the coast, with Byron and Coffs at around 11.

So, what’s the takeaway? Well, basically, I reckon we should see waves of some sort through the day. The wind is set to be light this morning and out of the southern quarter. By this afternoon the Bureau says it’ll go around to the NE and start building toward 20-25 kts by close of play.

On another note, an email came through alerting me to a good article by Nick Carroll over on Surfing Mag’s site. Nick’s joining the call for much improved medivac services in remote Indo surf zones following the horrific experience of Daz Longbottom earlier this year. Here’s Nick’s opener:

“Imagine yourself in this situation:

You’re a skilled surfer on your first ever trip to the Mentawais when a free-fall floater goes badly wrong. Your head and your board meet at precisely the wrong angle, at the wrong moment. Twenty minutes later, you’re lying on the deck of the charter boat, strapped to the remains of the board, with a bad headache and no feeling whatsoever from the chest down.”
Click here to read the rest of Nick’s story…