"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris

Thumping swell for Monday morning

Hello Friends,

Slept with the windows open last night and knew it would be solid this morning because of the steady rumble from nearly a kilometre away. Sure enough, when I checked the Collaroy-Narrabeen stretch, the lines were long and big. But surfable? Well, sort of. It was too hazy to make out Northy, but at Surfrider Gardens wave faces were comfortably into the 2x overhead range. They were packing some serious punch but unfortunately the shutdown to makeable ratio was 50:1. And when I say makeable, that meant a person could a) make the vertical take off and b) get in a couple of turns before having to straighten off as a hundred metres of wall shutdown either side of them.

Here are the numbers: first tide of the day is a 1.75m high at 0850. Swell was coming from 81° and was 2 m at 14 seconds as of 0800. Wind was calm when I took the snaps, and should be light this morning before settling to the NE as the day heats up to 30C. Ocean temp is 23C and Beachwatch reports clean water at most beaches.

This is obviously not a day for beginners or most intermediates. Even the less intense spots will see heavy sets into the head high plus range.

Take care folks and maybe check back later to see if I found any more pics to share…

Brutalist beach a couple of hours before high tide
Straightening off after making the drop – just how it was at Surfrider Gardens for the early

Weather Situation

A high pressure system over the Tasman Sea is directing fresh north to northeasterly winds along the coast. A southerly change is expected to develop along the southern coast today and Tuesday as a high pressure system strengthens to the south of the Bight.

Forecast for Monday until midnight

Variable below 10 knots becoming northeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the late afternoon then tending northerly in the late evening.
Below 1 metre.
Easterly 2 metres.
Partly cloudy. The chance of a thunderstorm in the early morning.
Surf conditions in the morning may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Tuesday 18 January

North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots shifting southerly 15 to 20 knots during the morning.
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres around midday.
Easterly 1.5 to 2 metres.
Cloudy. 80% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm offshore.

Wednesday 19 January

Southerly 20 to 30 knots turning southeasterly 25 to 30 knots during the evening.
1.5 to 2.5 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 2 metres developing during the morning.
2nd Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
Cloudy. 90% chance of showers.