A 2.5 metre 16-sec dead south swell was making its presence felt along the beaches on an overcast Monday morning. Dee Why was overhead on sets, but as the pictures show, despite the very long period, the swell had a lumpy, raw look. Wind for the early was a helpful westerly of just 3-4 kts. Tide was coming off the low at 0800 and will be back to the 1.66 m high at 1430. The NE wind will get started soon and by the time we get to high tide it’s likely to be a summer-standard 15-20 kts. Weather’s set to be cloudy all day with a slight chance of rain as we head to a high of 26.
The GFS model called this long period pulse and this morning it was projecting periods to still be in the 13 second range tomorrow morning, but the swell will be a metre or so smaller at sea. The south magnets should still be producing some solid waves, and with any luck the wind pattern will be similar to today. By midweek we’re looking like being back to smallish east to south east short-period wind swell.
Have a great Monday and may the week ahead go well!
A high pressure system over the Tasman Sea is extending a ridge across the east while an inland trough is deepening, directing northeasterly winds along the coast. This weather pattern will be largely unchanged through the coming week due to the slow movement of the inland trough and a cradling high pressure ridge to the south. Meanwhile, a coastal trough is forecast to bring a southerly wind change along the southern coastal waters on Tuesday and heads north during the midweek.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Monday for Sydney Coast
- Northeasterly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 30 knots offshore in the afternoon.
- 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres offshore.
- Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
- Partly cloudy.
Tuesday 21 November
- North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore during the morning.
- 1 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
- 1st Swell
- Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
- 2nd Swell
- Northeasterly around 1 metre.
- Partly cloudy. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Wednesday 22 November
- North to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots shifting south to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning.
- Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres inshore during the morning.
- Northeasterly around 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the morning.
- Partly cloudy.