Posts in News Stories
Swell and weather came together for 30 or so people at Dee Why point on the last Thursday morning of August…
Curl Curl, Dee Why, Don's surfin' pics.
Lots of swell and lots of people in the water on Sunday, so I went shooting in the morning. Herewith links to a couple of galleries…
89 pictures from Dee Why beach. Started shooting at 0955 went until 1005 (have more shots, but they’re not uploaded yet)
120 pictures from mid-Curl Curl. Started shooting at 1120, finished at 1140 (have more shots, but they’re not uploaded yet)
Dee Why, Top stories.
A few pictures from the 244-picture gallery posted on Sunday 27 May 18…
(Clicking here will take you to the gallery)
Don's surfin' pics, Top stories.
Went for a swim with the camera last week and grabbed a few shots for your enjoyment.
Click any pic to visit the entire gallery of watershots.
I came across this story about Maine, USA wood board builders on Bloomberg of all places… when I grow up, I want a real wood board!
Don's surfin' pics.
Skies may have been cloudy, so the colour wasn’t too interesting, but the waves were pumping for the early session at Manly beach’s North Steyne on Wednesday morning. Here are a few samples…
To see all 300+ images from Wednesday morning click here.
News Stories, Surf Reports, Surfrider Foundation, Top stories.
Rode me bike from Collaroy Plateau to Manly and took the beach route via Curly. Tide was way too high so the soft chest plus wind swell was gutless in the extreme. Tide dropping should help plus wind still mellow at noon.
South Curl Curl late morning…
Later at Manly as tide dropped the south Steyne crowd started seeing head high bombs…
Ocean Care Day 2017 seeing lots of folk wandering by…
Surfrider Foundation’s stall at Ocean Care Day.
You can buy tickets for the ultimate quiver and surf trip at the stall today or click here and do the deed!
As dawn washes over Bondi Beach, you can see the surfers beyond the break, gently rising and falling on their boards. They gather like this when the surf forecast tells them a big swell is rolling in, carrying energy from a ferocious Antarctic storm thousands of kilometres away.
From Bondi to Bundoran, Pipeline to Mavericks, surfers around the world depend on the surf forecast to catch the perfect wave. Its inventor, Walter Munk, is 100 today – yet few surfers know his name, despite the debt of gratitude they owe him.
‘Einstein of the ocean’
His list of accolades is astounding. There is a unit of measurement named after him: the “Munk unit”. There’s a species of ray called Mobula munkiana. There’s even a Walter Munk Award for outstanding contributions to oceanography, which of course he has won.
Munk has made fundamental contributions to our understanding of ocean circulation, geology and climate change. But perhaps his most influential work is the science of wave prediction, which he developed while still a doctoral student in California.
After graduating from Caltech in 1938, Munk began a PhD with renowned Norwegian oceanographer Harald Sverdrup in the sleepy seaside town of La Jolla. Distressed by Germany’s annexation of his native Austria, Munk became a US citizen and joined the war effort, first as an army private and later with the US Navy Radio and Sound Laboratory.
While observing Allied troops training for an amphibious invasion of Northwest Africa, Munk noticed that waves were pummelling the landing craft as they approached the beach. He immediately called Sverdrup, and together they developed techniques for predicting ocean waves and surf conditions for amphibious warfare.
Their methods were so successful that the Allied forces used these to predict wave conditions for the D-Day landings at Normandy. Based on those predictions, General Eisenhower delayed the operation, the largest naval invasion in history, until June 6, 1944. Undoubtedly, Munk’s research saved thousands of Allied lives and helped bring about the end of World War II.
Waves across the Pacific
Thus began a lifelong fascination with ocean waves. In 1963 Munk, then a professor at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, led a team of scientist studying how swells generated by Antarctic storms travel more than 16,000km across the Pacific Ocean.
The team set up stations to measure the waves as they travelled in a great circle from New Zealand to Alaska. Munk and his family spent more than a month in American Samoa for the experiment, monitoring pressure sensors mounted on the ocean floor and recording data on paper tape punched with holes.
The experiment yielded a surprising discovery. The waves showed very little decay in energy on their journey across the Pacific. The biggest change was a shift in the observed period of the wave – that is, the time between passing crests. Munk’s team found that the period increased as the waves moved northwards.
This happens because ocean waves are dispersive, meaning that the speed of the wave depends on the period. Long-period waves move more rapidly, so they run to the front of the pack, while shorter-period waves lag behind. The phenomenon is well known to surfers, who experience this dispersive ordering as a gradual shortening of the time between sets of waves.
Order from ‘lovely confusion’
In a 1967 documentary that Munk made with his wife Judith about the experiment in the Pacific, he describes how an orderly ocean swell can emerge from the chaos of an Antarctic storm. Using the analogy of tossing a handful of pebbles into a pond, Munk describes how the water surface is initially broken up in “lovely confusion”. But eventually a steady procession of ripples can be seen spreading outwards from the point of impact – regular and predictable.
Munk’s pioneering work on ocean swells, together with his wartime research on wave prediction, gave birth to the science of surf forecasting. In 2007 his contribution to surfing was formally recognised by the Groundswell Society, a surfing advocacy group. Munk later recalled:
I have been fortunate in receiving the recognitions that are traditional in a scientific career. But none gave me as much unexpected pleasure as this recognition by the Groundswell Society. I was utterly delighted.
After more than eight decades of ocean science, Munk shows no signs of slowing down. He is still hard at work, researching and speaking at international conferences. As the worldwide oceanographic community prepares to celebrate his centenary, Munk’s enthusiasm for discovery has not dimmed.
In an interview this month, Munk revealed what keeps him going. “More enthusiasm than knowledge. That’s been the key of my career — to get excited before I understand it.”
Hang loose, Walter.
Stopped by Curl Curl Sunday around 0830 and stayed for an hour to shoot people catching some fun looking waves along the middle part of the beach. You can see the whole 246-picture gallery here.
A couple of galleries from a sizable south pulse over a sunny weekend…