"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris

In California today

Just a few pictures from near Santa Barbara this morning and evening. Swell still firing for us. Wonder if it’ll be here tomorrow…  

Postcards from Cali: late afternoon at Deveraux point

Hello Friends, Your jetlagged correspondent checked the conditions just on dusk at a spot near the University of California at Santa Barbara. It’s a point called Deveraux and it will pick up most winter swell action and hold it across all tides. Quality is in the fun not scary category and I was stoked to […]

Postcard from Cali: Skunked beyond belief

Hello Friends, Just had to share my pain. After two weeks of flatness, I decide to go on a landscape photography expedition to a spot called Jalama. I figured it’d be totally blown out since I was heading up mid-afternoon and the place is a famous wind hole. I didn’t bother chucking a board and […]

Postcard from Cali and a few thoughts about Sydney surf outlook too

Hello Friends, Through a fog of jet lag, your correspondent can report that surf conditions between LA and Ventura were not wildly dissimilar to what your’re seeing in Sydney today. Although there were healthy crowds at places like Malibu and California Street in Ventura, wave faces were in the knee to waist (at best) range. […]

Thoughts from micro Cali

Hello Friends, It’s still dark in Sydney as I start tapping out these words. Doesn’t look like much of an early morning sesh coming up if the MHL data is anything to go by. In fact, I don’t think there’s likely to be much of anything anywhere on the east coast because all that’s showing […]

From the land of cold water

Hello Friends, Sorry about running late, but it’s been a day spent driving for me. From what I can see, it’s pretty puny in Sydney at lunch time. Just a weak little SSW wind swell of a metre or so showing on the MHL buoy. Throw in an east north-east sea breeze and I’m guessing […]

Over the horizon

Hello Friends, It was still dark in Sydney as I wrote this early on Wednesday morning. Wind was lightly out of the SW and the next tide was a low at 1050. The MHL spectral data was showing a fair amount of south swell – up to 3 metres – with an average period of […]

Micro in SoCal

Hello Friends, At 0700 the MHL buoy was showing a mix of SE and NE swell, with the later dominating. It was showing close to 2 metres at sea, but the average period was a sloppy 7 seconds or so. It looked as though there was a small wave maybe along the southern end of […]

Postcard from Cali: not happening here

Hello Friends, An intense couple of days for your correspondent, so it was good to get a look at the beach. There wasn’t much to see though. Autumn here isn’t a patch on autumn on the east coast of Oz. They still get summery fog and junky seabreezes with only very occasional pulses of tiny, […]

Micro Thursday and a postcard from Cali

Hello Friends, Another day of abject tininess for Sydney. Beautiful otherwise, but with half a metre of 10 sec period east swell, there will be next to nothing for surfers. The sad news is that from my reading of the charts, tomorrow will be flat and Saturday may only see the slightest uptick. But from […]