Posts in Postcards

Rainy in Sydney, clear in SB, tiny in both

Posted on March 4th, 2020 in Postcards.

Hello Friends,
Looks like a rainy old morning with only tiny, weak looking bumps scudding into the beaches of Sydney. It was around 1.6 metres at 9 seconds from the SE as of 0700, so there should be a few knee high plus bumps at optimal exposures, however the Bureau says swell could start bumping up this afternoon. I’m not seeing anything much on the ECM model, but the Wavewatch interpretation is showing 12+ sec stuff over the next 24-48 hours… so more in line with the Bureau’s advisory re swell. Looks as though tomorrow will be windy and messy for you…

Back to really small in Santa Barbara/Ventura counties as the swell that never was much, fades out.
I had a look at the beach west of Santa Barbara and it was definitely too small (see below)

Near where I surfed a few days ago… pretty, but too tiny to ride now.

This pier services the offshore oil platforms and beyond it are a few walk-in spots that can be fun in the winter months

Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the southern Tasman Sea extends a ridge along the New South Wales coast, while ex-Tropical Cyclone Esther approaches northwest New South Wales. This pattern is generating northeasterly winds along coastal waters, which are expected to freshen tonight and during Thursday as the remnants of Esther slip southeast across New South Wales. The next southerly change is expected on Friday as the remnants of Esther reach the Tasman Sea, and a cold front moves to the south of the state. By the weekend, a high pressure ridge will extend along the New South Wales coast from a high centred near Tasmania.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
Winds
Easterly 15 to 20 knots turning northeasterly during the morning and increasing to 15 to 25 knots by evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy. 70% chance of rain.
Caution
Surf conditions in the afternoon and evening may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Thursday 5 March
Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Northeasterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots in the late morning and early afternoon.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Cloudy. 90% chance of rain. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Caution
Surf conditions in the morning may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Friday 6 March
Winds
Northwest to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots tending west to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning then shifting southerly during the day.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
East to northeasterly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Southerly 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy.


Waist high in Sydney, Knee high in Santa Barbara

Posted on March 1st, 2020 in Postcards.

Hello Friends,
Sunny with northerly wind before 0800 in Sydney. Swell is 1.6 m at 11 seconds from the SSE, so best exposures should see at least waist high. Low tide was at 0725 and high will be around 1325. Wave energy looks like sticking around the metre mark all day and into tomorrow. From the models it would apppear you’re in for a switch to southerly late tomorrow and then Tuesday could see southerly again but with more swell energy.
Meanwhile in Santa Barbara we saw a little pulse from the NNW yesterday, so my mate Guy and I went for the 40 minute walk to our fave reef set up where we found long lines and waist plus sets about every 10-15 minutes. It was pretty much flat in between. Water was around 15C, so not too bad in a 3/2 steamer. Just the two of us in the water for most of the session, and stoked to report I jagged a few of the bigger ones. A bit windier and smaller today, but there might still be something, and Monday currently shaping for it to bump up into the waist to chest plus range…
Grabbed some snaps to share…

Post surf

Typical: you’re on the beach changing out of your wettie and set of the day comes through.

Cruisy little peak

Reef I surfed showing form

Weather Situation
A weak high pressure ridge stretches along the NSW coast and will persist during the weekend. A cold front is expected to sweep across the southern half of the coast on Monday, bringing a vigorous southerly wind change to southern and central parts. In its wake, a new high pressure ridge will develop, resulting in strengthening onshore winds from Tuesday.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.
Monday 2 March
Strong Wind Warning for Monday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Northerly 15 to 25 knots tending northeast to northwesterly 10 to 15 knots in the late morning, then shifting south to southeasterly 20 to 30 knots in the late afternoon and evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.
Tuesday 3 March
Winds
Southerly 20 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots inshore early, decreasing to 15 to 20 knots during the morning, becoming east to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy. 50% chance of showers


Cali sunshine and very small

Posted on February 23rd, 2020 in Postcards.

Hello Friends,
Swell in Sydney looks to have cogged down a notch during the nighttime hours and as of 0600 was 1.5 metres from the SE at 9 seconds apart. So if you got waves yesterday, go back there again today and you should still get a little something.

Continues to be very small in southern California. Today’s pic is from the California Street Surfline cam in Ventura. C-Street is a swell magnet, so when it’s small there, it’s likely small every where. It’s a pretty day here though

California Street. (Surfline screenshot)

 
Weather Situation
A high pressure system in the Bight is extending a ridge to the Tasman Sea, while a trough of low pressure lies over inland New South Wales. The high is expected to slowly drift eastwards during the next few days, maintaining a ridge along the coast. The next significant change looks set to arrive during the middle of the coming week.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
Northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Monday 24 February
Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots. Winds reaching up to 20 knots inshore during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly below 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Tuesday 25 February
Winds
North to northeasterly about 10 knots increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the day.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.


Santa Barbara scenes

Posted on February 22nd, 2020 in Postcards.

Hello Friends,
I’m fetched up on the shores of California once more. And is it ever tiny. Most places are so microscopic that they could not possibly be surfed. And where there are waves, for the most part it’s in the ankle to knee high range. But, as can happen at this time of year, there are very occasional one or two wave long period sets, and such were turning up every now and then at local Santa Barbara west swell magnet Sands beach which is just west of Isla Vista, the bedroom community adjacent to the University of California at Santa Barbara campus.
Figuring there were no waves, I hopped on my pushie for a 25km loop that would give me a chance to see the beaches. The first picture I took was at the eastern end of Isla Vista beach, looking west. A tiny but very long west line was coming in, so I thought there might possibly be something out at Sands (which is on the other side of that treelined point in the distance.

Tiny west line showing at Isla Vista beach, (with Deveraux point in the distance).

I continued west through the student-crowded streets of Isla Vista to the bike trail running out to Deveraux point and Sands. There were some people out messing around with longboards at Deveraux, but it was ankle to calf high at best.

Deveraux point long boarders

When I went around Deveraux to look at Sands, it looked to be just as flat. Plus there were only half a dozen people along the whole beach (usual minimum crowd is 2-3x that). But as I watched, a waist high set wave came in to have its picture taken. Amazing.

Wave of the day? Sands beach set appears