on thursday at 5 pm: up to head-high, steady, mellow, glassy, end-of-swell lines, sweeping across what would be our rivermouth point, were the tides not so low – the paddleout commenced in the broad tipping point to mildly deeper water, which is reached when the cobbled reef is exposed to its fullest – although only 5 brethren were pursuing the right on the east of the point, i was still berated by a semi-local moron, who accused me of being in the way – nonsense, he should easily have surfed around as i tried to avoid him – he ordered me to the back of the line, so of course i paddled around him and far to the front, where i caught a decent one into the point – then i paddled further into the middle of the rivermouth, and caught two more, with an embarrassing last minute dismount in between, from my antique 6’2″ Pearson Arrow competition board – back onshore, other, already-celebratory brethren were more social – we’ve had top conditions in recent days – a lull with better weather right now, but should resurge soon – marine winds at the straits mouth southerly to 30 knots – **********- if this indeed be the our in which i lift up my lantern, it is not my flame that shall burn therein – k gibran …
