I reckon Zingomar’s post is a good ‘un. -Don
Why we surf – an attempt to articulate it in depth
Post by zingomar » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:21 pm
After watching Bombora (which I enjoyed) I was left feeling that no-one really pinned down the many dimensions of why we love to surf. So here goes my try in no special order:
1. The primitive thrill of the hunt:
i.e. the search – going out hunting for surf, scoring a session or wave for personal satisfaction and to show off and to bring back to tell and impress the tribe.
2. The primitive desire to explore and wander
We evolved to wander the globe and find new areas and places. We still love this – new spots, new countries with surf as a meaningful and exciting goal – what is over the hill or around the bend may be genuinely exciting. Most tourists wander from destination to destination with a sesne of going through the motions and are thinking about what is for lunch. Surfers travel with excitement
3. The desire to show off in a dramatic way
Waves provide a stage that is missing for most of us in day to day lives. Being on a wave you stand out and are watched by paddlers and those on the beach. We may pretend we don’t care to be seen but we do. Getting tubed or pulling off a big move gives a little moment of being centre stage. How often do you get a hoot in life outside surfing??
4. The visual beauty – waves can create some amazingly appealing visuals that few other sports can begin to come near (skiing, diving, rock climbing come a bit close)
One reason the surf industry can be so successful is that the visuals of waves and surfers are so strong and “cool”. Streetwear, skate fashion imagery etc just can’t compete with the appeal sun surf and beach.
5. The ability to wrap oneself in the beauty of nature – see, feel, hear and taste it
Most visual beauty is something you see rather than experience. In surfing you can wrap yourself in it, touch, feel ride and get thrashed about by it. Sex is one of the few other things where you can get so involved in beauty (if you are lucky)
6. The sensation of weighting and unweighting and subtle direction changes at speed
Roller coaster designers have long known these thrills but recently discovered that subtle weighting and unweighting while in motion give humans a lot of pleasure – more so that radical direction changes. Surfing is full of this as you weave up and down a wave
7. The ability to taste and overcome real fear without life and death being at stake and with a soft landing
Surfing can confront you with all sorts of fear situations in heavy waves and big waves with just a short paddle from the beach. Our ancestors would have hunted or escaped from wild animals both hating and loving the fear sensation then and later around the camp fire as stories are told. Surfing can do the same at a host of levels.
8. Scarcity of the peak experience
For most of us the peak experiences of pefect waves are rare and it is hard to totally get your fill. So often you want more or had a fleeting taste of a new level of speed or a deeper tube and want it again. Wanting draws you back. The average surf is not magical but the peak moments definitely are.
9. Waves are ephemeral – they disappear
Familiarity breeds contempt, so the fact that you can’t sit a wave in your living room for years so that it gathers dust and becomes just another object perpetuates their appeal.
10. Hanging out with mates with a purpose and something in common that gives you stories to tell and adventures to share
11. The sense of achievement from learning new skills and pulling off good moves
Surfing wraps all of the above together to make it unique and hard to be matched in any other human activity.
