on sunday morning at 930, we enjoyed glassy, end-of-swell, two to three-foot lines at our rivermouth point – especially copious in the southern pools, just east of the point, where a distinct, mildly-mellower crowd hangs – there i picked off four in quick succession, until cold drove me in – water not at its coldest yet ! – excellent, easy conditions – the lost village point, further west, likely to have epic shapes …… – continued rain and storm presage ongoing excellent rides -*******- a seeker of silences am I, and what treasure have I found in silences that I may dispense with confidence ? – k gibran -*******- & tied for no. 1 song of the year ……… the black keys – little black submarines, and the lumineers – ho hey !!!! twitter mercuryloge ….
