"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris
dy big wave surfer

Thumping swell on Sunday morning

Hello Friends,

The swell started picking up yesterday morning and as of 0400 was rolling in from the ESE at 3 metres with a period of 14 seconds. The point looked to be close to maxing out on the sets, but those just under the mark were rideable. Plainly not a morning for beginners, or indeed anyone uncomfortable with 2x overhead sets.

Wind was SW 13=18 kts as of 0750, however the Bureau says it’ll swing SE soon. Tide was high at 0715 and will be low again at 1345. There’s a 90% chance of up to 10mm of rain – particularly along the coast.

The forecasts are calling for a week of 2 plus metre 10+ sec south swell through to about Wednesday. Unfortunately it also looks like there’ll be heaps of southerly wind with it until about midweek when the Bureau is predicting a switch to more autumnal offshores – yay!!

I’m off to join Simon Marnie and Rob Brander on ABC702 radio for a stint from about 1015. Depending on conditions, I’ll try to get some more pics or video later.

Have yourself a safe and sane Sunday and know your surfin’ limits!

big DY wave
Not a day for beginners
dy big wave surfer
Much bigger and it becomes mostly unrideable