High cloud and only a hint of a line trickling in along the beaches as Saturday kicked into gear. The lulls are long and the sets are struggling to make the thigh high mark at the most exposed spots. On the plus side, it was dead glassy for the early risers.
Tide was dropping to the low at 0935 when I grabbed the pics around 0645. It’s back to a 1.4 m high at 1610. Wind should start picking up from the west this morning ahead of an afternoon south change. With luck there could be a few forerunner sets before the wind change.
Once the southerly piles in, the swell should begin to push up with it and the Bureau has a large and powerful surf warning for tomorrow morning when they’re calling for the southerly swell to peak in the 3-4 metre range.
The models show the swell mostly staying offshore because it’ll be straight south, so I reckon the morning session tomorrow could be the coming week’s peak day. Will it be 3-4 metres on faces? Hmmm… maybe… but I’m thinking more like shoulder plus to head and a bit is the likelihood.
By Monday it looks like things will simmer back to only a bit more than we’re seeing this morning.
Have a great Saturday everyone!
A front will extend a southerly change along the coast today, behind which a ridge of high pressure will develop, moving slowly east to be over the Tasman Sea by Monday.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Westerly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore during the morning and early afternoon. Winds turning southerly 15 to 20 knots in the early afternoon.
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.
Southerly below 1 metre, increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening.
Sunday 1 October
South to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots turning westerly 10 to 15 knots early in the morning then becoming variable about 10 knots in the early afternoon.
About 1 metre.
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 2 to 3 metres during the day.
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Monday 2 October
Easterly 10 to 15 knots tending northeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning then tending northerly during the evening.
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the evening.
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.