As of 0630 the chilly NW wind was blowing 8-10 kts under mostly clear skies. Out at sea, the sub one metre swell was coming from the SSE (160°) at 9 seconds. As the pictures show, the combination of strong offshore winds overnight and the weak little swell were adding up to not much of anything along the beaches. I’d call in ankle to knee high.
The westerly is going to ramp up as the day goes along but the swell won’t be improving, so surf prospects are dim.
We’re due for more strong westerlies tomorrow, but the Bureau and the models are showing an uptick on the swell front. Both the ECM and Wavewatch are predicting 1.5-.1.6 metres of 11 second dead south swell for Sunday. They diverge on Monday’s prospects with Wavewatch saying it’ll drop back to tiny across the day while the ECM sees a slight drop, but staying above a metre. Then they flip for Tuesday, with ECM predicting 3 metres from the south at 10 seconds in the morning, while Wavewatch says 4.7 metres south at 11 seconds. Interestingly the Bureau’s model shows swell swinging to the east for Tuesday. ECM reckons the wind will be SW at 17 kts, but Wavewatch says southerly at 19 kts. They both show swell dropping into the 2 metre range for Wednesday and then fading away to tiny by Friday.
Have yourself a top old Saturday everyone, and fingers crossed for Monday-Tuesday…
A vigorous cold front that crossed the coast overnight is associated with a deepening low over the western Tasman Sea. This low should slowly move away to the east during the weekend as a large high pressure system slowly approaches New South Wales from the west.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast
Westerly 25 to 35 knots.
2.5 to 4 metres, increasing to 4 to 6 metres by early evening.
Northeasterly below 1 metre.
Sunday 8 September
Gale Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast
Westerly 30 to 35 knots turning southwesterly 25 to 40 knots in the morning then decreasing to 20 to 30 knots in the evening.
4 to 6 metres, decreasing below 4 metres later in the evening.
South to southeasterly 1 to 2 metres.
Monday 9 September
Southwesterly 25 to 40 knots.
1.5 to 2.5 metres, increasing to 4 to 7 metres during the afternoon.
South to easterly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, tending southerly 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Cloudy. 90% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.