vancouver island
on sunday morning at 1030 am: 2 – 3 footers at our rivermouth point, long, fairly slow, gently crumbling lines – 3-minute sets every 6 – 8 minutes – but under very low tide, almost as low as i have ever seen – exposing huge portions of the pools on the east side of the […]
vancouver island
on sunday at 4 pm: almost flat at our rivermount point, with just a few long, shapely, mini-lines, around the shoreline – the gatekeeper at the campground confirmed dolefully that there has been no surfing for a week, but that there was some hope for a swell, middle of the coming week…. – under these […]
vancouver island
on wednesday at noon: 1 – 2 footers, a little slow, but steady, and presaging stronger conditions further up the straits – a few brethren were clowning about on the west side of our rivermouth, amid some kayakers – i resolutely took the point to myself, and picked up 6 easy lefts – a few […]
south-west vancouver island
on saturday at 5 pm: 1 – 2 footers at our rivermouth point, wide, crisp, almost continuous, but breaking a little too far in, over the edge of our cobbled and treacherous reef, exposed as a vast oval stage under low tide – i caught three fairly quickly, carefully ducking the large boulder that is […]
south-west vancouver island
on wednesday morning: steady, wide, 1 – 2 footers, rolling in against the spit, right in town – this relatively rare event presages high-quality conditions further up the coast – please stay tuned !!
vancouver island
on saturday at 3 pm: under one foot, and sloppy – just stirring at our rivermouth point, with steady, tiny, soft bowls and shoulders around the point – i was updated by a co-owner of the smashing new establishment Chompa Chomp, in the downtown core of our rivermouth point (pop. approx. 50, increasing with wave […]
south-west vancouver island
on monday at 3 pm: up to twice over-head, strong swell, heavy rain – long, fairly glassy, slightly blustery lines at our rivermouth point, offering beautiful platforms and slow slopes, with tremendous force – one of the rare winter days, when the point magically becomes a world-class break – the swell was so strong, that […]
south-west vancouver island
on sunday at 5 pm: up to 2.5 times over head at our rivermouth point – great, crashing, blustery, foaming long lines, sweeping over and burying the point, so that we had to enter deep in the river mouth – i stayed comfortably cautious, taking high banks from the biggest breakers: about 6 in all, […]
south-west vancouver island
on sunday at 4 pm: 1 – 2 footers at chickens, at the lost village beach, a bit slow but pleasant – even slower at the superior firsts reef, to the east – and some solid offerings at seconds, to the west – three brethren and i lapped up the occasional offerings at chickens, under […]
south-west vancouver island
on friday at 5 pm: 1 – 2 feet at Firsts at the lost village beach, a slow, gentle, lazy bowl, offered against a grey and pink sunset – two brethren shared this small but acceptable feast with me – i caught 6 waves pretty quickly, but their session was a good deal longer – […]