Articles tagged with "E-1m-7s"

Goin’ quiet

Posted by: on January 2nd, 2012

Hello Friends,

Light north breeze and a small, but not miniscule east wind swell for Sydney this morning. Dial the expectation-o-meter down pretty low and you should be able to talk yourself into a splash at your favourite beach break. Figure knee high to maybe waist on the bombs I’d say.

The Bureau sez: North to northeasterly 5 to 10 knots, increasing to 10 to 15 knots during the morning and 15 to 20 knots in the afternoon.

Tide’s low around 0845, so the incoming push might help a bit.

Looks from the forecasts as though the next week will be pretty quiet wave-wise for Sydney. Seems as if all the interesting systems are going to stay well clear of the swell windows.

….
Your postcards from California show Campus point today. We actually had some shoulder high sets yesterday, but it’s faded to knee high this morning, so not sure that I’ll get wet on what is for me the first day of 2012… however, in a couple days time we’re due for the first big swell of the winter season, so I hope to have something more interesting to share.

(Below) The top of Campus point (so called because it’s within the boundaries of the University of California at Santa Barbara) is the main surf zone. It mostly breaks during the autumn-winter months when the swell is out of the NW. There are a number of distinct peaks, so it spreads the often considerable crowds out.

(Below) Poles is the next distinct break down from the point at Campus. As you may be able to tell from the pic, it’s a well-defined reef that can peel for a hundred metres or more if the swell is big enough. Super fun on a mal, but good for short boards when it’s firing.

(Below) Looking down the point from Poles. On really big swells (only a handful of times in a season), you can pick up a wave from Poles and take it all the way down to the corner at Goleta beach park! Jelly legs material.

Have a good one and Happy New Year!

Posted by: on December 24th, 2011

Hello Friends,

Looks as though the primary swell direction has shifted to the east overnight. “Swell” might be too big a word for a metre at 7 seconds apart though. High tide’s about 0730 and wind’s comparatively light from the E to SE along the Sydney coast as the day gets rolling.

While today looks like a good one for doing holiday stuff rather than going to the beach, the forecast models are still holding out hope of some sizable e-ne wind swell in a couple days.

If the forecast’s right, you could be looking at an ECL forming up off the Qld/NSW border and then moving south. Potentially that could mean sizable (overhead) waves from around Monday to Tuesday or so. Wind however is likely to be a major issue as the models show the system staying pretty close to shore.

It’s pretty much flat over in southern California today as well, but I’m nurturing hopes for Mon-Tuesday…

Have yourself a great day!

Nup, nothin’ doin’ at Dee Why

Posted by: on November 10th, 2011


Hello Friends,
90 percent chance of rain says the Bureau, and it feels like it too. An 0730 high tide was doing nothing to assist an already very feeble little east wind swell. Energy levels are so low that I couldn’t really see a line as such. There was a hint of froth around the rocks of Dee Why point, but nothing showing on the beach.

And I don’t like our chances for any improvement today.

Back to work and school with you! Huey’s off to other parts of the globe – and yours truly is off to Surfrider’s national conference in Margaret River for the weekend. Unlike dire old Sydney town, it looks as though there will be solid swell in Margs. I shall of course endeavour to file a report or two for you!

Keep on smilin’!

Not totally hopeless, just almost totally hopeless

Posted by: on October 23rd, 2011

Hello Friends,

Hazy, mainly overcast morning with light south wind and a weak 7 second period east wind swell producing knee to waist high dribbles at Dee Why.

You’ll need to be extra keen, but at least it is not totally flat.

The wind should settle into a NE by mid-morning and be hammering along at 20-25 kts by close of play. We’re due for a rinse-and-repeat tomorrow, so there might possibly be a little more activity for early risers on Monday. And of course fans of onshore conditions should have a few opportunities this afternoon as the chop builds up.

There’s still a hope for some long period energy mid week. The modelling shows the peak happening toward the end of Wednesday and maybe lasting into Thursday morning. If it plays out as the forecast predicts, it could be very long period south swell into the shoulder to head high range on sets. Hey, we can dream can’t we?

Go well with your Sunday!

TIDES: L @1040 H @1650

Weather Situation
A stationary high pressure system over the northern Tasman Sea extends a ridge into northern New South Wales. This high is expected to weaken and drift east tonight as a cold front, currently well south of the Bight, approaches the region. This front is forecast to sweep across southeast Australia during Monday and Tuesday, bringing a southerly change to most of the New South Wales coast before it weakens into a trough over the north. Following this, the next high is forecast to move from the Bight to the Tasman Sea mid-week, establishing an onshore airstream.
Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
Light and variable inshore at first, otherwise north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots increasing to 20 to 25 knots by evening.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres increasing to 2 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Northeasterly 0.5 metres.
Monday 24 October
Winds
Northerly 15 to 25 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots around dawn then increasing to 15 to 25 knots by early evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 metre.
Tuesday 25 October
Winds
Southerly 10 to 15 knots during the morning tending south to southeasterly 10 to 20 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Up to 2 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 metre tending southeasterly 1 to 2 metres from the morning.

Sunny Monday morning with not much happening

Posted by: on March 14th, 2011

Hello Friends,

It was calm as Monday got started, but the Bureau says the wind will be out of the south to SE around noon as a south change comes through. By this evening the call is for 20-25 of south to SE wind. Early risers were greeted with weak and small easterly conditions. No one was in the water at the Dee Why end of the beach when I grabbed a snap at 0800.

Once the wind arrives, there should be some south windswell with it, but the quality is going to be ordinary at exposed places where it’s biggest, and given the short period of the windswell, I wouldn’t expect to find much of anything in the protected south corners.

So the plan is to take your most optimistic attitude, your floatiest surfing tool and get out the door asap this morning.

From the shape of this morning’s run of the swell forecast models, it looks as though the week ahead will be generally small and weak. Out at the limits of the models, the forecast is currently showing quite a large and intense system swinging around from the southern ocean into the Tasman at the weekend. It looks like it could be a big one too. These forecasts generally turn out to be rather optimistic (from a surf perspective!), so I’d just be penciling in the south swell spots for Saturday at this stage. BTW, if it turns out to be as intense as currently forecast, our friends on the other side of the pond in Mexico and southern California could be looking at some tasty southern hemi swell…

Roll on with your day and may it all go well!

TIDES: L @1045, H @1640
Weather Situation
A cold front is moving across the southern Tasman Sea. In the wake of the front a high pressure system is moving towards Tasmania extending a ridge to New South Wales south and central coasts. Another southerly change is expected to develop along the coast during Wednesday.

Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds: Northerly 10 to 15 knots tending south to southwesterly up to 30 knots during the morning then tending southerly around midday. Winds tending south to southeasterly 20 to 25 knots by early evening. Seas: Up to 1.5 metres increasing up to 2 metres around midday then increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the afternoon. Swell: Easterly 1.5 metres becoming about 1.5 metres from the late morning. Isolated thunderstorms in the late morning and afternoon.

Forecast for Tuesday
Winds: South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots tending east to southeasterly up to 15 knots around midday then tending north to northeasterly up to 10 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Up to 2 metres decreasing to below 1 metre during the afternoon. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres tending southeasterly from midday.

Forecast for Wednesday
Winds: Northerly 5 to 15 knots tending north to northwesterly up to 10 knots during the morning then tending south to southwesterly up to 20 knots during the afternoon. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the evening. Swell: Southeasterly 1 metre. Isolated thunderstorms from the morning.

T

The hot and the not so hot

Posted by: on February 20th, 2011

Hello Friends,

Only a trickle of east swell to work with this morning. Throw in nearly 2 metres of tide at around 1030, and the look is very fat and full. But it isn’t totally flat, so if you are extra keen – or if you just need any excuse to cool off (it was 30 at 0900 on Collaroy Plateau), there’s reason enough to get in. There’s no obvious sign of a likely change in swell energy levels for today, so I’d guess that this afternoon will probably not be much good anywhere.

Monday doesn’t look particularly interesting at this point, indeed if the models have it right, it’ll be smaller than today. The pulse we model watchers were hoping for midweek is fading away from the forecasts. This morning’s computer dreaming is showing a peak in size on Tuesday. That matches up with the Bureau’s current call for brisk SE wind all day. Blergh.

Here’s hoping those models are being unduly pessimistic…

Have yourself a great Sunday!

Winds are set to remain light this morning, but then to swing SE around lunchtime.

TIDES: H @1030, L @1550

Weather Situation
A high near New Zealand extends a ridge to the northern New South Wales coast, and to the south of Tasmania while a broad low pressure trough lies over the west of the state with a low southeast of Tasmania. The trough will move eastwards today with the low likely to move further southeast followed by a vigorous cold front expected to arrive on the South Coast later on Sunday and to extend to the far north coast by Monday afternoon.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds: Northwesterly 5 to 10 knots tending southwesterly and light during the morning then tending south to southeasterly up to 15 knots around midday. Winds tending east to southeasterly up to 10 knots by early evening. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Easterly 1.5 metres. The chance of afternoon thunderstorms.

Forecast for Monday
Winds: South to southwesterly 5 to 15 knots, reaching 20 knots at times, tending south to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots around dawn. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 2 metres around dawn. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres tending southerly 2 metres in the afternoon and evening.

Forecast for Tuesday
Winds: South to southeasterly 20 to 25 knots decreasing to 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres. Swell: Southerly about 2 metres.

No southerly for the early, but it’s coming

Posted by: on February 12th, 2011

Hello Friends,

I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the Bureau’s overnight call for early morning southerlies wasn’t quite right. Early risers were treated to glassy, waist high sets at spots that like a bit of east. There’s nothing remarkable about the numbers (the MHL buoy is showing around a metre of 7 second east windswell), but there were definitely little waves to be had.

However, at 0730 when I was writing this, weather stations in the Illawarra were reporting 15-20 kts of south wind. So it’s coming.

TIDES: L @1010 H @1545

Weather Situation
A high pressure system near New Zealand extends a ridge to the New South Wales north coast. A cold front is bringing a southerly change to the southern and central coasts today, but is expected to weaken over the north tonight. Another high pressure system will develop south of the Bight during the weekend, extending a ridge along the New South Wales coast behind the front.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds: An early morning southerly change 15 to 25 knots, reaching 30 knots at times, decreasing to 10 to 20 knots around midday. Winds easing further to around 10 knots in the evening. Seas: 1.5 to 2 metres decreasing to below 1 metre by evening. Swell: Easterly 1 metre. Isolated thunderstorms.

Forecast for Sunday
Winds: Southeast to southwesterly 5 to 10 knots tending east to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots around dawn. Seas: Below 1 metre increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning then increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon. Swell: Southeasterly 1.5 metres.

Forecast for Monday
Winds: East to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots. Seas: 1 to 1.5 metres increasing to 2 metres during the morning. Swell: Southeasterly about 1.5 metres.

Drizzly day in Sydney

Posted by: on December 4th, 2010

Hello Friends,

The Bureau got the precipitation prediction right this morning but the overnight call for brisk winds this morning, missed the mark. So, it was glassy along the Collaroy-Narrabeen and Dee Why-Longy stretches – which is a good thing because the tide was high at 0640 and the little wind swell was just barely making itself felt at a few banks.

Northy had a reasonable population in the water by 0630, but there was a long wait between sets and the metre of 7 sec period east wind swell was/is struggling to make wave faces much above waist high.

It was pretty much the same around at the No Man’s to Dee Why stretch, ie long waits for weak, small and marginal wind swell waves.

Huey still has us in a holding pattern and there is every indication that it will continue in much the same way through to next week. The best shot at a wave will probably be in the afternoons at spots that like the east wind swell – and can cope with the afternoon NE’r.

Have yourself a top old Saturday!

Weather Situation

A stationary high pressure system over the Tasman Sea extends a ridge to the New South Wales north coast. Little change in the synoptic situation is expected during the next few days, with a generally northeasterly airstream being maintained along the state’s coast.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds: Northeasterly 5 to 10 knots inshore at first, otherwise north to northeasterly 10 to 20 knots. Seas: 1 to 1.5 metres. Swell: Easterly 1 metre.

Forecast for Sunday

Winds: Northeasterly 5 to 15 knots. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Easterly about 1.5 metres.

Forecast for Monday

Winds: East to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots. Seas: Below 1 metre. Swell: Easterly 1.5 metres. Isolated thunderstorms from midday.

very, very nearly flat

Posted by: on March 27th, 2010

Hello Friends,

Looks very small but not quite flat. There are a few little ones getting into the stretch between No Mans and Dee Why and between Gardens and Northy. However, it is really small. Knee high bomb sets and 5 metre rides is pretty much the story.

Outlook for the rest of the day is not too interesting. What we have now, is probably what we’ll have for the rest of the weekend… indeed, for the rest of the week. There is some evidence of a broad region of easterly swell developing to the NW of NZ late in the week, so there is a small chance we’ll get something of interest by next weekend.

Have yourself a terrific day!

 

 

 

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Saturday until midnight: Wind: S/SE 10/15 knots, reaching 15/20 knots at first. Tending E/NE in the afternoon and freshening to 15/20 knots later.Sea: 1 to 1.5 metres.Swell: E’ly about 1 metre.
Sunday: Wind: N/NE 10/15 knots, freshening to NE 15/25 knots in the afternoon and reaching 20/25 knots later. Sea: about 1 metre rising to 1.5 to 2 metres in the afternoon. Swell: E’ly about 1 metre.
Monday: Wind: N/NE 10/20 knots.

Summertime blues

Posted by: on December 22nd, 2009

Hello Friends,

Another beautiful morning in Sydney. But it is summer – and we all know what that means. Yes, microness dominates the picture. The best I saw was a briefly knee high set wave at Dee Why. It must have lasted upwards of 2 seconds. But hey, the water’s warm, it’s a glorious morning, there’s last minute shopping to be made even more last minute… what more do you need?

Since the NE wind’s due to push up into the 20-25 kt range by late, you might be in with a chance at your favourite summer windswell spot in the last couple hours of the day.

The next couple days look good for, well, shopping. There might possibly be a little tiny something left over in the morning along the lines of what we saw today.

At least one riff on the forecast data for Christmas Day is showing a little NE windswell perking up in the afternoon. So, after Chrissy lunch, while the cricket is muttering away on TV and the little ones have descended into the glorious sport of annoying one another, you might be able to slip away for an appointment with Mr Huey…

For my part I shall be confined to enjoying the pleasures of the table and watching our flanneled fools making short work of Pakistan. Yes, ’tis the season for our tribe to spend a week in the Barossa with the rels. Of course I’ll be in touch anyway as I should have plenty of time to examine forecast data and speculate thereon for your very good self.

Have yourself a top old day!

Tides: L @0607, H @1231
Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Tuesday until midnight: Wind: N/NE 15/20 knots, reaching 20/25 knots offshore in the afternoon.Sea: 1 to 2 metres, reaching 2.5 metres offshore in the afternoon. Swell: E/NE about 1 metre. Isolated afternoon/evening thunderstorms.
Wednesday: Wind: Early S/SW change 5/15 knots, tending N/NE 10/20 knots, increasing to 20/30 knots during the afternoon/evening. Sea: 1 to 2 metres rising to 2 to 3 metres later. Swell: E/NE 1 metre.
Thursday: Wind: N/NE 25/35 knots.

 
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