on thursday at 3 pm: from two to five-foot at our rivermouth point – long smooth, gentle, rather flagging lines, banking cleanly, in the clear, warm afternoon sun – sets every one to three minutes – i caught five waves in about 45 minutes, positioning west of the rivermouth point, aiming for the left across the rivermouth – my 14 colleagues were concentrating on the easier right that commences where the line parts, just west of the point – of course, a lot of the time i was pushed into the close-out in front of the point, but even there the rides were fairly easy – a new swell should resurge soon – yay – strong wind warning in effect at the mouth of the straits – winds southeasterly to 25 knots -**********- and what shall i give to him who has left his plough in midfurrow, or to him who has stopped the wheel of his winepress ? – k gibran ….
