Hello Friends,
Once it was plain that the sun was out for the rest of the day, I decided to take a jaunt. The period of the east swell has increased slightly to around 9 seconds. So I thought there might be something worth escaping the keyboard for.
First stop was just south of Gardens. There were two or three people out near Marquesas, but while it was solidly overhead on sets, the incoming tide, swell direction and generally sloppiness of the surface conditions were not combining very well. I waited around for awhile to see if someone would catch something but they never did.
While I was standing there, I noticed that the Council was tipping sand off the end of Wetherill St to counterbalance in a tiny bit the recent pronounced erosion. I reckon the beachfront is about as carved out as I’ve seen in my 20 plus years on the northern beaches. Much of it will return come the calmer summer months, but I’d bet we haven’t seen the end of the erosion for this winter.
Next stop was Long Reef. The swell was getting in there too, but it was suffering from a kind of sluggishness. Although there was enough size to have fun, that shortish period seems to be translating into rather slow, lumbering and sectiony waves. The lefts were the only real option up the north end, whilst down toward No Man’s you could get the odd very brief righthand section. But the lack of people in the water was testament to the conditions.
Untempted to paddle out myself, I sought inspiration further south, so pointed the old surfmobile toward Dee Why.
The more direct exposure to the oncoming east swell was yielding some good size faces, but the messiness factor and slothful period meant that most waves were pretty crumbly. You needed to work the board pretty hard to get reasonable acceleration. The longer and wider the craft, the better the results. Fairly busy too in the beach break. There were some little things in front of the point for a couple bodyboarders. I saw one get a longish section before he got picked off. Doing a lot of waiting out there I’d say.
Surely Curly…
It was busy around at north Curly and for good reason. It was the best of a pretty ordinary bunch. The crew was scattered about at the north end and there didn’t seem to be just one place where you could get into ’em. Plus there were both rights and lefts. But… but it was still kind of full and slow on lots of them.
Here’s the latest from the Bureau. I like the look of the wind forecast. Maybe it’ll clean up a bit more overnight…
Oh, and first tide tomorrow is a high around 0830.
Go well one and all.
Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Monday until midnight: Wind: N/NW 10/15 knots inshore, grading to N/NE 18/23 knots offshore.Sea: about 1metre inshore, 1.5 to 2.0 metres offshore. Swell: NE 2 to 3 metres.
Tuesday: Wind: NW/NE 5/10 knots.Sea: to 1 metre.Swell: NE 2 to 3 metres.
Wednesday: Wind: N/NW 10/20 knots.
Thursday: Wind: W/SW 10/20 knots.
