on friday at 5 pm: almost flat at the lost village point, with a few undulations, sweeping across the highly-uneven boulder reef known as Firsts, under low tide – i paddled out, and investigated carefully the various seen and unseen crags that provide the backdrop for our wave fun – a mostly still day, but quickly-changing conditions, and we should be back upright on our boards in no time -**********- and he said to himself: shall the day of parting be the day of gathering? and shall it be said that my eve was in truth my dawn? – kahlil gibran …
