A late Daylight Savings Time sunrise and a mid-morning meeting constrained my pre-work surf session. I arrived in the dim light of almost dawn, but was still the third surfer in the water. The waves were bigger than they’d looked from the low bluff, fun-sized at about shoulder-high. They were doubling and sometimes tripling up, making for an energetic paddle out and demanding patience in wave selection. Three was my lucky number as my third wave was the best, a nice left with a lot of playtime and turns on the shoulder. It took me a bit far inside where I landed too close to submerged rocks for comfort and thinking maybe I should’ve kicked out earlier. But woot! It was a fun ride. There were a lot of fun waves this morning, but that was the most stokeful.
While I was bright-eyed for dawn patrol, my buddies didn’t arrive until the sun was well up. I said hello and goodbye to J-Bird in the lineup, and saw Luke’s truck in the parking lot but not the man himself. I hope they got some good ones, but you know what they say about the early bird…
Surfline: There is a clean mix of building WNW (290-300) swell and modest SSW (190-210) groundswell in the water this morning. Size for most breaks is in the chest-head high range, as top exposures pull in sets in the overhead to 2-3′ overhead zone, with more size building in through the day. Conditions are nice and clean, although the building tide is keeping most breaks a little slow. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 7.9 ft at 14.8 s WNW 26 / WIND WAVE: 3.9 ft at 6.2 s NW / WVHT: 8.9 ft / APD: 7.8 s / MWD: 291° (Met) WSPD: 14 kts / GST: 16 kts / WVHT: 8.9 ft / DPD: 15.0 s / WDIR: 340° / ATMP: 54.0° F / WTMP: 53.6° F. Tide: 3′ rising to 4′.
