Hello Friends,
The graphic below tells the story. We have some serious south swell thundering into Sydney this morning. I’d expect the beachies to mostly be shutting down, although maybe, possibly, south steyne and south Narra could have their moments. As you can see from the chart, it was straight south and 2.7 metres on average (with swell + seas of up to 5.2m). The 13-sec period means exposed spots will packing a fair old punch. My guesstimate is set wave faces in the 1.5x overhead range.
The modelling says the swell energy will drop a little this afternoon but it should still be surfable tomorrow at south spots – and maybe even kinda fun.
Friday looks like being pretty crazy as another bigger pulse fills in from the south. Unfortunately the call is for gale force southerlies. If the models have it right, the energy should stick around through to Monday-Tuesday before we get a lull.
…
Yours truly is wrapping up the latest California run having surfed only twice. Not sure how I’ll go over the next few days for net access, so apologies in advance for any radio silence. The picture below turned up when we were going through some old family photos during my visit. As far as I know it is the earliest picture of me surfing. Taken in early 1970 when I’d only been learning for six months or so, it shows me at Braemar, the nearest surf spot to my parents’ place in Santa Barbara. I’m riding an eggy 6’6″ single fin and wearing a ripped wetsuit vest I’d salvaged from a beachside bin. Probably spring or early summer with water around 15-17C…
Still stoked, still surfin’ 45 years on!
