Didn’t expect to see much of anything this morning when I stopped by Longy for a look at the beach around 0745. But, as the pictures show, there were knee to waist plus sets showing up from Longy to Kiddies. Wind was light westerly but should be around to the eastern quarters soon.
Tide was high at 0620 (low’s at noon), so there appeared to still be some high water fatness happening. Waves would wobble up on the banks and sort of spill over, offering (briefly) enough face to do something. Often as not, they then disapated in the gutter between the bank and beach.
The MHL buoy was picking up 1.2 metres of 9-second SSE (154°) as of 0600. Ocean temp is about 17C.
Tomorrow will see SE both wind and shortish period but slightly bigger (out at sea) south wind swell. From a surf perspective, the models are pointing to ho-hum prospects from tomorrow through Saturday. Around Sunday conditions could be a little better as the wind goes back to the westerly quarters and swell gets more east with a bit longer period. My modest hope is for waist to chest high faces at magnets for Father’s Day morning.
Go well with your Wednesday plans everyone!
A high pressure system lies over the central Tasman Sea, with another in the Bight. Between these systems, a complex trough lies near the New South Wales coast, within which there are multiple weak low pressure circulations. This trough is expected to move away from the coast tonight and Thursday as a cold front crosses southeast Australia, although a new trough is forecast to develop off the central and northern coasts on Friday while a high passes to the south.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
South to southeasterly about 10 knots becoming east to northeasterly in the afternoon.
Below 1 metre.
Easterly below 1 metre.
The chance of a thunderstorm this morning. Mostly sunny afternoon.
Thursday 29 August
Variable about 10 knots becoming west to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots before dawn then shifting southeasterly 15 to 25 knots in the morning.
Around 1 metre, 1.5 to 2.5 metres by evening.
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres in the evening.
Cloudy. Near 100% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Friday 30 August
Southeasterly 15 to 25 knots.
1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Southerly 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 2.5 metres during the morning.
Northeast to southeasterly around 1 metre.
Cloudy. Near 100% chance of showers and the chance of a thunderstorm.