on sunday at 2 pm: up to double head – long, powerful, clean, lightly-blustery lines – one of the stellar days for which our rivermouth point waits forlornly all year, and which finally vaults it into the world-class break category – very crowded waves – the kind of crowd that hollers support when you pull for a wave – better than hostility ! …. – i managed a half-dozen rides very easily, just by staying a little further in than the madding crowd – foggy… ghostly surfers appearing all across the rivermouth, sampling the neatness of these waterborne conveyor-trays – water still deliciously-tingling december, rather than body-and-mind-numbing february … – marine winds westerly to 15 knots – conditions are likely to settle slowly – gather ye nuts while ye may -**********- shall my heart become a tree heavy-laden with fruit that i may gather and give unto them? and shall my desires flow like a fountain that i may fill their cups? – k gibran …. …
