on wednesday at 7 pm: up to 3-footers: strong, even lines every 3 – 5 minutes, breaking at our rivermouth point, at low tide – just two brethren and i, in still-chilly, march wind conditions – the trick was to catch only the stronger waves, which created a firm line radiating east of the point – otherwise, you get closed out into the point, where many more lines were breaking – within these strictures and gathering dark, i caught two waves carrying me into the shallow pools east of the point – marine winds at the straits mouth westerly to 25 knots by friday, then rising to a merry 45 knots on saturday – **********- empty and dark shall i raise my lantern, and the guardian of the night shall fill it with oil and he shall light it also – k gibran …
