Messy and chest high

Posted by: on January 12th, 2020

Hello Friends,

Another grey and windblown morning with junky but chest high waves. Swell at sea as of 0600 was 2.3 metres at 11 seconds from 160° (SSE). Wind was SE at 8-15 kts and therefore, as the pictures show, not doing anything to improve surface conditions at Dee Why. It’ll only be worse up the beach at Longy. There was a sizable crew on it at the point, but it looked as though the conditions were pretty similar to what I saw last night, ie just too south for the 11 second period to wrap properly into the point. Promising looking head high sets would stand up but by the time they were with the crowd, they’d be fading out and be uncatchable. The point picture shows this hoaxing phenomenon quite clearly. It really looks like being a solid one, but a few seconds later – nothing. Sigh.
The beach break has a scattering of takers, but if it’s like last night (and it looks that way), you can expect crunching close outs with very few makeable beyond a first turn. Tide’s coming into the deep 1.98 m high at 1010. So that’s probably not helping either. Weather should stay cloudy, mild (23C) and south wind affected all day. Water’s on 20C according to Beachwatch.

The Bureau’s call for tomorrow’s coastal weather conditions (see below) is for SE in the morning going E-NE later. They’ve also posted a dangerous surf advisory for Mon and Tuesday. This is probably due to an expected influx of longer period (16+ seconds) stuff from the south to SSW that is showing on the Wavewatch model. The long period energy is shown peaking tomorrow but still staying above the 10-11 second level through to Wednesday evening. Tuesday sees a swing in the wind regime to a summery NE pattern, so that, combined with an incoming tide during the morning could prove fruitful at a few spots…

Have a good Sunday everyone!

Quite a crew waiting for waves at the point. This one faded, uncaught . 0810

Activity along the beach, but quite junky

Weather Situation
A high pressure system near Tasmania extends a ridge along the New South Wales coast, while a trough continues to weaken as it moves north along the northern coast. This change will clear the far northern coast early this morning. Following this, the high is expected to move over the Tasman Sea by Monday, bringing a gradual shift back to northeasterly winds during the first half of this week. The next front is expected in the second half of this week.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight

Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots, possibly reaching 20 knots at times.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
1st Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres.
2nd Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy.
Monday 13 January
Winds
East to southeasterly about 10 knots tending east to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the middle of the day.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
1st Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Cloudy.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Tuesday 14 January
Winds
Northeasterly 10 to 15 knots becoming easterly about 10 knots during the morning.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1 to 2 metres offshore.
2nd Swell
Easterly below 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Mostly sunny.
Caution
Surf conditions in the morning may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

No Comments So Far!

Post a Comment

You must be logged in to post a comment.