Posts in At large

Onshore from early but waves for the keen

Posted on November 16th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Last night’s south change leaves us with a small, messy south swell and 9-13 kts of SSE wind along the beaches. At optimal exposures such as Dee Why, conditions are junky but definitely surfable. Set wave faces looked to be in the waist to shoulder high range. The MHL buoy was seeing 1.8 metres at 11 seconds from 162°.
Wind is set to come around to the NE later today, but not to weaken. On the other hand, the Bureau says the waves should pick up a little more during the day.
Tide is a swampy 1.78 m high at 1125. It’ll be back to low a little after 1800. We should see a high around 24C today and Beachwatch’s latest says water’s still 19C and quality is good.
Surf outlook is pretty typical for this time of year, ie mostly around the waist high mark at surfable spots, but blown out by mid morning. Tomorrow morning might see a little bump in the north corners, but the rest of the week is looking fairly ho-hum.
Get out there if you can and have yourself a top old Saturday!

Nothing much happening at Long Reef

Fun ones in the sideshores at Dee Why

Dee Why showing possibilities at 0630

South Narrabeen 0625

Nothing of interest along the Narabeen stretch at 0625


 
Weather Situation
A high pressure system south of the Bight will slowly move east over the coming days while extending a ridge across parts of New South Wales. At the same time, a number of troughs will move through parts of the coast: one bringing a southerly change to the north coast today, another bringing a resurgence of south to southeasterly winds to the coast on Sunday, and yet another ushering a southerly change to the southern and central coast on Tuesday.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 20 knots offshore early in the morning. Winds turning east to northeasterly in the late afternoon and evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 metres during the morning, then increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Sunday 17 November
Winds
Northeasterly 10 to 15 knots turning southerly 15 to 20 knots in the late morning then tending southeasterly 15 to 25 knots in the late afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy. 60% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm in the morning and afternoon.
Monday 18 November
Winds
Variable about 10 knots becoming northeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon then tending northerly during the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy


South swell lighting up the magnet spots

Posted on November 9th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

South swell popped up overnight and the best exposures are seeing wave faces into the head plus range on the bigger sets. It’s pretty straight though. According to the latest data from the MHL buoy, the energy is coming from 160-162° with heights at sea averaging 2.4 metres and typical periods of 10 seconds. Wind was 10-12 kts by 0700 and a tide peaking at 0710 have combined to produce a textured surface and somewhat full looking faces. Wind should go SW soon and then swing SE this afternoon. So, the plan is to get in sooner rather than later. Ocean’s about 19C and weather should be sunny and a mild 21C.

Outlook as the Goat observes in his update forecast, is for the swell energy to stick around and even pick up a little tomorrow before fading again by Tuesday morning.

Get out there and have some fun !

 

 

No Man’s standing one up at 0640

Set stacks into Long Reef at 0635

South swell showing at Long Reef

No Mans looking a bit fat on the high tide

Just south of the Lugga at 0630

The crew on it at Northy

No takers for the little ones at south Narrabeen

Weather Situation
Winds will remain predominantly south to southwesterly during the weekend in the wake of the southerly change this morning, then weaken before turning northerly and strengthens again early next week as a high pressure system over the Bight crosses New South Wales and moves into the Tasman Sea. Then the next cold front looks set to cross the New South Wales coastal waters between Tuesday and Wednesday, bringing the next southerly wind change.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots tending south to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the afternoon then tending westerly 15 to 25 knots in the evening.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning, then decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm this morning.
Sunday 10 November
Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Westerly 20 to 30 knots, tending southerly 15 to 20 knots in the early afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 2 metres, increasing to 2.5 to 3 metres around midday.
Weather
Sunny.
Monday 11 November
Winds
South to southwesterly about 10 knots becoming north to northwesterly during the morning then tending north to northeasterly 15 to 25 knots during the day.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon or evening.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres during the afternoon or evening.
Weather
Mostly sunny.


Smooth in some corners early but wind on its way

Posted on November 2nd, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Yesterday evening’s NE wind blew well into the night hours before finally fading (briefly) before dawn. That meant protected zones such as Northy and Long Reef were comparatively smooth as of 0630. Wave faces were into the chest high range on sets, but the 6-8 second period meant they were quite weak and gutless. Tide was low at 0620 and will be back to high at 1250. By then the NE wind will be back to 20-30 kts and surf options will be minimal – unless you don’t mind chop-bashing what could be shoulder high junk.
We have another day of smoky conditions ahead. It should get to 27 this afternoon. Water quality is good everywhere and temp is sitting on 19C according to Beachwatch.

We should see some rain tomorrow, but the NE wind will still be smashing it. By Monday the showery weather could still be around, but the wind regime is predicted to be more NW, so it could be that Monday morning might see a fading NE windswell with favourable breezes for the early. Longer range outlook is not too exciting – basically sub-10 second wind swell in the metre range.

Have a top old Saturday everyone!

 

Longy under pink bushfire smoke skies at 0630 – weak but clean

White rock a jumbled mess 0630

The point’s a nah at 0630

Thrilling set wave at No Mans 9630

Gardens bumpiness only going to get bumpier

Crew on it and scoring at 0620

South Narrabeen maybe at 0620

Weather Situation
A high pressure system over the Tasman Sea is directing north to northeasterly winds along the New South Wales coast today. A trough is forecast to bring a southerly change to the South Coast on Sunday, central parts of the coast early Monday morning and then weaken and stall as it reaches the far north coast by the end of Monday.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast
Winds
North to northeasterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Mostly sunny.
Sunday 3 November
Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast
Winds
North to northeasterly 20 to 30 knots decreasing to 15 to 20 knots in the afternoon.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore.
Weather
Becoming cloudy. 80% chance of rain. A thunderstorm likely in the afternoon and evening.
Monday 4 November
Winds
West to northwesterly winds 10 to 15 knots at first, turning south to southwesterly in the morning, tending east to northeasterly about 10 knots during the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 to 2 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers. A thunderstorm likely.


Whadya know, not totally flat on Saturday morning

Posted on October 26th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Looks very tiny most places this morning, but if Northy is any guide, north corners are picking up waist plus waves. However, if you’re thinking about Dee Why, expect ankle to knee at the south end and knee to thigh up toward Longy. But there’s a bit of a wait in lake like conditions between the sets. There’s a mix of microscopic south and about a metre of 8-second NNE bump as the day gets started.
First tide of the day was the high at 0730 and by the time it’s low again at 1330, the wind should be 20-30 kts from the north, swinging SW toward dusk.

 

Looked like a millpond at south Narra and then this little line came in

Thunderous set sweeps into DY

No takers at Whiterock

Northy showing energy at 0630

Terrifying comber at No Mans 0645

Mal-able set wavelet at Longy 0645

Weather Situation
A high pressure system centred over the northern Tasman sea and a cold front approaching from the west are directing northerly winds over New South Wales waters. A weak southerly change is moving through southern coastal waters this morning ahead of the front. A stronger west to southwesterly change will sweep through most New South Wales waters this afternoon with the passage of the front.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast
Winds
Northerly 20 to 30 knots shifting west to southwesterly in the late afternoon.
Seas
1 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon, then increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening.
Swell
Northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore.
Weather
Mostly sunny morning. The chance of a thunderstorm offshore this afternoon.
Sunday 27 October
Winds
West to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore early in the morning. Winds shifting east to northeasterly during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning, then decreasing below 1 metre around midday.
1st Swell
Southerly below 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Northeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning, then decreasing to around 1 metre around midday.
Weather
Sunny.
Monday 28 October
Winds
Variable below 10 knots becoming southeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the morning then becoming easterly below 10 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
Weather
Partly cloudy.


Postcard from Guethary

Posted on October 21st, 2019 in At large.

Today we leave Guethary after a wonderful swell filled 3 week stay.  It is raining and onshore today (which makes leaving this lovely part of the world a little easier).     This photo was taken from Guethary train station a few days ago.  It shows the left hander Les Alcyons breaking nicely with only a few out.   Not many railway platforms around the world have a better view than this!

Nice view!


Postcard from Mundaka

Posted on October 19th, 2019 in At large.

Swell was up again so we drove down south into Spain to the legendary river mouth town of Mundaka.  The famous left hander was ‘cooking’ when we arrived  at low tide (which is prime time).

Nice and simple paddle out from the harbour at Mundaka.   Catching a set wave not so easy however with 80 plus surfers in the water.  Still a couple from our group managed to jag a few.

Mundaka firing today


Blowy and messy morning

Posted on October 12th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Rain overnight but it seemed to be clearing this morning. Sadly the surf situation is not terribly interesting. The SE wind blew all night and as Saturday started it was 10-15 kts from the SE. There is swell but as the pictures show, the surface conditions are pretty bad. Out at sea swell was 2.5 metres at 13 seconds apart from the S-SSE. First tide of the day is a high at 0820. It’ll be low again at 1420. Water’s on 18C, but you have to wonder about quality after that downpour last night.

The wind blown conditions are set to continue all day and overnight, but at least some modelling shows it backing off for the morning session tomorrow. The swell should hang in there at about the same intensity, so just maybe the weekend warriors will wake to fun conditions at south magnets.

Looking at the rest of the week the trend appears to be downward. With luck we’ll get another reasonable session on Monday morning before things cog down into the marginal knee to waist high range for the rest of the week.

Have a great Saturday one and all!

White rock is a maybe

Windblown midway between Dee Why and Longy

Messy but just barely surfable at the point

South Narrabeen

North Narrabeen nup

Weather Situation
A high pressure ridge over the Tasman Sea will direct east to southeast winds along the coast over the weekend. Winds will shift north to northeasterly and strengthen from Monday as an inland trough will deepens.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
East to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the afternoon.
Swell
Southeasterly 2 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Cloudy. 80% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm in the morning and early afternoon.
Sunday 13 October
Winds
East to southeasterly about 10 knots tending northeasterly 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly 2 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Monday 14 October
Winds
North to northeasterly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to about 10 knots during the morning then increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the day.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon or evening.
Swell
Southeasterly 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy.


Guethary on the pump!

Posted on October 11th, 2019 in At large.
The surf at Guethary is big again today.   Our run of swell continues.   When the swell is up  this break is not for the faint hearted.  It is a shifting peak that breaks in deep water over a large area.  Very easy to find yourself in the wrong spot and getting cleaned up.   Rest assured your correspondent has worn his share on the head over the past week.  Today it is 6-10 feet and there are not too many takers.   Those that are paddilng out are mostly on guns.   Need plenty of board speed to get into a wave like this.

Standard equipment for riding Guethary today….
On a cultural note, yesterday was raining and onshore so we paid a visit to the Guggenheim museum just over the border at Bilbao in Spain.  Incredible building both inside and out.  Well worth the visit.   So many great things to do in this part of the world…..

Postcard from St Jean de Luz

Posted on October 9th, 2019 in At large.

Today we walked along the beautiful coastal path from Guethary to St Jean de Luz; a wonderful thing to do with today’s  strong swell as it gave us a chance to check out a lot of the breaks along this incredible stretch of coastline.

Very solid waves at Parlementia, Guethary.  Swell was 6-8 feet today, which meant some massive clean up sets.   Definitely a work out!

Lafitenia was a lot smaller and well shaped, but busy…..
Not sure of the name of this break but it was somewhere between Lafitenia and Erromardi and looked really heavy with only a couple of chargers out.
This wave is at the entrance to St Jean de Luz harbour.   You can just see a surfer in the bottom right hand corner attempting a ‘behind the wall’ take off.


Postcards from Hossegor

Posted on October 8th, 2019 in At large.

Drove up to Hossegor this morning to check out the WSL contest currently underway there.  Solid crowd on hand to witness the world’s best contest surfers take on a chunky beach break.   Lots of close-outs but the odd gem on offer for those able to successfully read the conditions.

Hossegor lacks the natural coastline beauty of places further south (like Guethary) but if contests are your go, this is the place.   Couldn’t help thinking how much more challenging this break must be to compete in compared to a sterile wave pool in inland California.

Still it was fun to watch and be part of it all.

Hossegor today

Flying the flag for local wildcard hero Marco Mignot. He came awfully close to knocking off Tour leader Medina…..

Medina trailed the whole heat then found a gem right at the death. Broke quite a few French hearts. The man to beat!

Medina…

In our household (and many others) he is called King Kelly. Wonderful to see the greatest contest surfer of all time go through his paces in challenging conditions.

Kelly…