Posts in At large

Find a corner and have fun

Posted on July 19th, 2019 in At large.

wnw 9-11kt 0730, 1.7 62 13s 0600 hat 0955, water 18

Hello Friends,
At 0730 wind was light WNW at 9-11 kts down at North Head. Water is sitting on 18C and as of 0600 the MHL buoy was seeing 1.7 metres of 13 second period SSE swell. Weather was sunny, water clean and waves at magnets should be in the chest to shoulder range on the bigger ones. Tide will be high at 0955, so get down there and have some fun!

I’m back to the waveless part of Cali, but if you were in southern Orange county, you’d be looking at another day of head high plusses at magnets like Lower Trestles. Wind chewing it up by lunch time, but by then you should be surfed out. Also looks okay up north in Santa Cruz – but the water’s 15 or so…

Weather Situation

West to southwesterly winds will generally ease by late today as a large high pressure system moves over New South Wales. North to northwesterly winds then develop from Saturday or Sunday as the high moves over the Tasman Sea and a cold front approaches from the west.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Winds8
West to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 25 knots during the morning. Winds turning south to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the early afternoon.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre later in the evening.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Saturday 20 July

Winds
Variable about 10 knots becoming northerly 15 to 20 knots in the middle of the day.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Sunday 21 July

Winds
Northerly 15 to 20 knots turning northwesterly during the morning.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

POSTCARDS FROM CALI

Cold water country. Shoulder high in the slot at Steamer Lane


More waves it would seem…

Posted on July 18th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Light westerly wind for the early in Sydney and there’s a call from the Bureau for the swell to perk a bit later. As of 0400 it was 1.3 metres at 11 seconds from the SSE. So, if you found waves at a magnet yesterday, I’d be looking there first, particularly if it’s later in the morning. Tomorrow could be interesting too as the swell could dial up and the wind is set to stay out of the west for the morning session…
Tide hits a 1.3 m high at about 0920. Water’s around 18C.

Missed a day or so on account of having made an impetuous trip through the LA clog to visit Trestles. Didn’t score anything too amazing, but it was fun to be in actual powerful swell with head and a bit faces. Water was around 20 and swell period was into the 16 second range. Saw some impressive surfing from the water on the second day when we surfed just below Lowers. Reminded me of being at Northy on an equivalent day in that the standard of surfing was generally very good to pro level.

Here’s a phone cam snap I took as we left the beach at Lowers. That’s the main peak as seen from the trail… (wind was into it pretty steadily by that point)

Main peak at Lowers. Around head and a bit high

Weather Situation

Gusty southwesterly winds are expected to affect most of the coast today in the wake of a cold front that crossed the region early this morning. The winds will generally ease by late Friday as a large high pressure system moves over New South Wales. North to northwesterly winds then develop from about Saturday onwards as the high moves over the Tasman Sea.

Forecast for Thursday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots early in the morning. Winds turning westerly 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning, then decreasing below 1 metre by early evening.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres around midday.
Weather
Sunny.

Friday 19 July

Winds
Westerly 15 to 20 knots tending southwesterly in the middle of the day then tending southeast to southwesterly in the early afternoon.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening.
Weather
Sunny.

Saturday 20 July

Winds
Variable below 10 knots becoming northerly 10 to 15 knots during the morning.
Seas
Below 0.5 metres, increasing to around 1 metre during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Sunny.

Foggy at lunchtime and small but catchable at Ventura

Wind chewing up the 5th day of solid swell at Trestles

Tiny lines for the surf school kids at Campus


Coming up – or not?

Posted on July 16th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
As of 0300 there was no sign of the 2.5-3 m swell per the Bureau’s call in this morning’s forecast. The MHL buoy was seeing 1.3 m of sse swell at close to 11 seconds. There didn’t seem to be much down south either. So, will it kick up? Hard to say, but my guess is that the dawn patrol won’t see anything too dramatic. First tide’s a high about 0800. Wind was a steady westerly of around 10 kts at 0400, and predawn temp was a toasty 10-11C. Should waarm up to 20C later. Ocean’s still on 19C too.
Outlook is for surfable conditions across the next three days…
Meanwhile here in soCal another south west pulse is lighting up southern Orange county, so your correspondent plans to make a trek to the intensely crowded peaks of Trestles…will he even get a wave?

Weather Situation

A high pressure system near the Bight is extending a ridge toward New South Wales, while a front over the western Tasman Sea moves east, maintaining southwesterly winds across the coast. Westerly winds will increase on Wednesday as another front skims across the southeast later Wednesday into early Thursday, and this front will be followed by a somewhat weaker front early Friday.

Forecast for Tuesday until midnight

Winds
Westerly 20 to 25 knots tending southwesterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning and early afternoon.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing below 1.5 metres around midday.
Swell
Southerly 2.5 to 3 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Wednesday 17 July

Strong Wind Warning for Wednesday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending westerly 15 to 25 knots before dawn then increasing to 20 to 30 knots in the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres by early evening.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening.
Weather
Sunny.

Thursday 18 July

Winds
West to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon or evening.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Sunny.

POSTCARD FROM CALI

Lowers with 40+ on head plus reeling lefts and rights.


Wisdom of the bus

Posted on July 15th, 2019 in At large.

Today we are transitioning between two south swells. Decent waves somewhere but getting them will require a bit of hunting. Perfect winter weather. Water still warm enough for a swim.

North of Mona Vale…..swell showing but straightish. Better options further up the peninsula. North Palmy had decent banks on the w/e.


Straight south for Sydney

Posted on July 14th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Looks as though swell pulsed up overnight and this morning was coming from dead south at a couple of metres and 8-10 seconds apart. Wind was westerly under sunny skies but with an air temp of around 10C. Water is still on 19C though. Best shot will be the south magnets we all know and love. Next tide is a low at noon. Swell is set to fade across the day says the Bureau, but there should be stuff in the waist to maybe chest at standouts.

Tomorrow looks interesting according to the Bureau: 3-5 metres of south plus stiff SW wind!

It’s the weekend in SoCal too and we’re seeing a slight uptick locally. I grabbed a few snaps (see below) coming back from visiting a mate in Ventura. Clean, glassy, knee to waist plus depending on where you were. I didn’t have a board though. Making a plan for a more ambitious wave hunt day after tomorrow…

Weather Situation

A series of cold fronts have been moving through New South Wales, generating periods of vigorous west to southwesterly winds. The next of these fronts is due to cross New South Wales waters late today and early Monday, followed by another front on Wednesday.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots turning westerly in the morning. Winds reaching up to 30 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres during the morning, then increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon, then decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres by early evening.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Monday 15 July

Strong Wind Warning for Monday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Westerly 25 to 30 knots turning southwesterly 20 to 30 knots in the morning.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 3 to 5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions in the afternoon and evening are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Tuesday 16 July

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots turning westerly during the morning.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Ok size on these beachy shutdowns just up from Ventura Overhead.

Backside Rincon just barely showing (top of the point is on left)

Beachbreak just west of Rincon


Surf? I don’t think so

Posted on July 13th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Not a Saturday to be up early for a wave. The MHL buoy was showing only 0.6 m or short period wind chop from the north as of daybreak. Wind was 10-25 kts from the WNW and air temps were around the 13C mark as of 0630. So, flat, blasting offshores and cold. Lovely.

If you’re checking in before 0730, you should tune into ABC 702 for the Goat’s words of wisdom on the week ahead surf prospects. From my reading of the runes, you should be waxing up the stick again in a few days’ time…

Similarly dire on the surf prospects for the Santa Barbara area, but north and south of the Channel Islands’ swell shadow, there is a little activity

Have a top old Saturday!

Weather Situation

A cold front will move through New South Wales waters today, accompanied by a vigorous west to southwesterly wind shift. A second front is forecast to clip southeastern Australia late Sunday and early Monday. Following this, winds will gradual ease as a high pressure system slowly approaches from the west.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northwesterly 20 to 30 knots turning west to southwesterly 25 to 30 knots during the morning. Winds reaching up to 35 knots at times.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres by early evening.
Weather
Cloud clearing.

Sunday 14 July

Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 25 to 30 knots turning westerly during the middle of the day.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres by early evening.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Monday 15 July

Winds
Westerly 25 to 35 knots turning southwesterly 20 to 30 knots during the late morning and afternoon, tending southwesterly and easing to 15 to 25 knots in the evening.
Seas
2 to 4 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 4 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

The busman busses on

Posted on July 12th, 2019 in At large.

Classic winter’s morning at Lake Placid (near Newport). A day for walking and swimming. Better days ahead for surfing.

Lake Placid


Surfless in Sydney, super small in So Cal

Posted on July 12th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Looks like a great day to catch up on the non-surfing aspects of your life today in Sydney. Not that it matters, but wind was 10-25kts from the NNW at a little after 0700. The Sydney buoy hasn’t reported in since midnight, but from the shape of the other reports, you’re probably into the sub one metre at sea zone. Tide’s heading to a low at 1025 and the wind is set to pick up as the day goes along. Not much hope of a wave today, but have a look at the Goat’s latest because he has some glad tidings to share…

Postcards below…

Weather Situation

Vigorous west to northwesterly winds are being generated ahead of a cold front. This front will bring a vigorous southwesterly change to southern parts late tonight and extend north on Saturday. A second front is forecast to clip southeastern Australia late Sunday and early Monday. After this, winds will gradually ease as a high pressure system slowly approaches from the west.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Friday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northwesterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots offshore.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Saturday 13 July

Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northwesterly 25 to 30 knots turning west to southwesterly during the day. Winds reaching up to 35 knots offshore.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres during the morning.
Swell
South to southwesterly 1 to 2 metres.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Sunday 14 July

Winds
West to southwesterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Lower Trestles this morning before the wind and swell fade. Perfect for the 30 or so chasing reeling lefts and rights…

Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz on a windy afternoon where it’s glassy and setty at the slot

Ventura this afternoon, sideshore, weak and small (but not as small as Santa Barbara)

Wave magnet Huntington Beach still seeing head high sets this afternoon in the onshores.


Pretty morning but waves looking small to tiny

Posted on July 11th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Only about a metre of SSE swell at 7-10 sec showing on the buoy off Sydney. Light NNW breezes for the early and still dropping to the low tide around 0840. Knee to maybe waist at the magnets, but don’t expect much. I’d say a few rest days coming up and then maybe early next week you’ll be seeing fun winter surf for a couple of days at least. Long range shaping up nicely too…

Here in Cali, the southerly swell from way downunder was pretty good south of Ventura. Orange county was looking the best and Trestles was head plus and looking ultra tasty on the cams, but the closer you get to where I am, the more marginal it gets… argh, summer in SB county.

Weather Situation

Two fronts will move through southern and central waters over the next few days: one this morning and the other late Friday or early Saturday. These two systems will maintain vigorous northwest to southwesterly winds over most of the New South Wales coast from Thursday through to Saturday.

Forecast for Thursday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Thursday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northwesterly 20 to 30 knots tending westerly 15 to 25 knots in the afternoon.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Friday 12 July

Strong Wind Warning for Friday for Sydney Coast

Winds
West to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots offshore.
Seas
1 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Saturday 13 July

Winds
Northwesterly 20 to 30 knots turning west to southwesterly 25 to 30 knots during the day.
Seas
2 to 3 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the afternoon.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Perfect fun size and glassy rights and lefts at Lower Trestles this morning.

Campus point too small even for the learners

Ventura getting windy in the afternoon, but showing waist plusses on sets at C-Street

Mondos just north of Ventura, looking ideal for beginners

Malibu looking really good and not too crowded at the top of the point (3hrs from me)


The early riser scored

Posted on July 10th, 2019 in At large.

Up early and decided to do some before work in the field research at Avalon on the low tide. Rewarded with a nice south end peak with only a few out.

Sat inside from the pack and scored some nice 2-3’ runners. Glorious morning (again)! Waves all day. More tide will help.


 

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