on monday at 3 pm: up to twice over-head, strong swell, heavy rain – long, fairly glassy, slightly blustery lines at our rivermouth point, offering beautiful platforms and slow slopes, with tremendous force – one of the rare winter days, when the point magically becomes a world-class break – the swell was so strong, that i felt no urge to enter the point area campground itself – the action in the normally-restful pools to the east was intense – 12 brethren with me (including sisters), mostly taking leisurely turns for waves arriving continuously, with major sets every 3 – 5 minutes – with my customary short patience (and fast paddle moves), i waited 20 yards further in from the buzz, and took all to myself the strong inner right slopes – a suitable no-brainer – jolly onshore crowd, all surfers, hurray ! -**********- a seeker of silences am i, and what treasure have i found in silences that i may dispense with confidence ? – kahlil gibran …. ********** twitter mercuryloge
