Posts in At large
Went for a surf at Curly around 1300 and can report we were seeing waves faces into the head and a bit range on the biggest sets. Quality was only so-so as most waves were fat to really fat. But at least we have waves!
Went out this morning and had a chance to check in on north Curly. As the picture shows, it was very small and there were only a couple of folks in the water (although a surf school was lugging boards down that way). Waves looked pretty soft and it was a wait between the knee high sets (which pretty much broke just a few metres off the sand).
Went up to Northy for a look as well. Wind was straight offshore and very chilly but there were more people in the water than at Curly and the little peak just off the beach was looking soft but do-able. Again lulls were a thing.
Very small, but at least there were a few little waves at magnets as Saturday got started. Waves looked to be in the knee to maybe waistish on the best sets. Speaking of which, there seemed to be long gaps between sets as well.
Tide was coming into the 1.5 m high at 0800 when I grabbed the snaps around 0630-0645. Wind hadn’t ramped up but was already 8-9 kts from the north.
The 0500 MHL observations showed 1.6 m of 13-sec stuff from the south, plus a weaker, shorter period component from the NNE. Water’s a chilly (for Sydney) 16C.
A high pressure system over the Tasman Sea extends a ridge towards the northern New South Wales coast, whilst a strong cold front is crossing South Australia. This front will move east and bring a vigorous west to southwesterly change to the southern half of the coast today, extending throughout early Sunday. Conditions should gradually ease later Sunday and Monday as a new high approaches from the west.
Forecast for Saturday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast
- Northerly 15 to 25 knots turning westerly 20 to 25 knots in the evening. Winds reaching up to 30 knots offshore in the late evening.
- 1 to 2 metres.
- Easterly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Sunday 12 August
Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast
- West to southwesterly 20 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots offshore in the late morning and afternoon.
- 1 to 2 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
- 1st Swell
- Southerly below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
- 2nd Swell
- Northeasterly 1 to 2 metres.
- Partly cloudy.
Monday 13 August
- West to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots.
- 1 to 2 metres.
- Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Apologies for the long radio silence. I’ll be back to daily reports in a week or so, but for now, a postcard from Southern California where the swell has died out in the last couple days – not that it was particularly interesting up this way, but at least it could be surfed. From the look of the latest MHL data, the situation for Sydney is pretty much the same as here, ie flat. At 0800 the MHL buoy was showing a metre of SSE off Sydney. Unfortunately, the period was an utterly gutless 4-5 seconds. Throw in the brisk 13C air temp as of 0930 and the gradually increasing westerly wind, I’d say doing something else this morning is the plan. The Bureau is talking about the swell coming up in the afternoon, but for what it’s worth, the models aren’t hopeful at all. MHL, surfline and magicseaweed are unifromly dour about the prospects of a wave until at least the end of the week. We’re not likely to fare any better here either, although tomorrow I’ll be heading out to the Channel Islands off Santa Barbara (that’s right, that’s where Al Merrick got the name for his little shaping business).
Hope you have a grand week, and if I can, I’ll pull together another postcard or two from the Islands visit.
A series of cold front will brush the south of the state through the start of the new week, bringing W to SW winds over the waters. Later in the week a high pressure system will assert itself over the waters, shifting winds onshore.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
West to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore during the morning.
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre by early evening.
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres by early evening.
Tuesday 31 July
Northwesterly 15 to 20 knots tending westerly 15 to 20 knots in the evening.
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres offshore during the morning.
Southerly 1 to 2 metres.
Wednesday 1 August
West to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots shifting southeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon.
1 to 2 metres.
Southerly around 1 metre.
About a metre of 10-sec SSE swell in Sydney this morning. 7-9 kts of NNW wind and air temps of around 7-8 degrees. Not liking your prospects for a wave, sadly.
No surf on last day in Denmark, but I did see noctilucent clouds last night – which is extremely cool for a weather nerd. Daytime temps again in the mid 20s under sunny skies in southern Scandinavia. We caught a ferry between Denmark and Norway and are now moving north. Very beautiful country indeed.
At 0400 Sydney was seeing 2.8 metres of SSE swell at 10 seconds apart. Wind was coming from the west at 10-12 knots and air temp up at Terry Hills was a bitterly cold 2.9 degrees! Swell is predicted to fade across the day, but from the numbers I reckon you’re in with a chance through to maybe midday tomorrow…
And now some postcards
First time I’ve seen the ocean in days. The tide was out, so there was probably a km or two of mudflats between the shore and the sea. The pictures were taken at a spot called Mando Island on the west coast of Denmark. It’s in the middle of the Wadden Sea National Park and the tiny 7 km sq island is reached at low tide via a narrow causeway. The pictures were taken after 9 pm with the sun still above the horizon. Wind was blowing from the west and temps were mild considering how far north we are. But the entire northern hemisphere is experiencing unprecedentedly high temperatures. Climate change continues its inexorable march…
Haven’t seen a beach in nearly a week. And the last one was the coast of Wales where the tide was so low we had to walk a kilometre just to get to the water’s edge. And there were no waves whatsoever. Since then been doing lots of moving and not much picture taking.
From here I can see you’ve got 1.4 m of 12-sec SSE in Sydney. So just on those numbers, there should be something to play with. And the good news is it looks like a little bump upward in the next 24 hours or so. Your wind was light from the NW but damn it looks chilly. Should get real windy but at least it’ll be SW. And it seems set to stay that way for you as the swell kicks up another notch or two. Your mate is jealous.
Here in the north west of Germany about 100 kms inland from the North Sea, it was in the mid-twenties under mostly blue skies. So, warmer than Sydney.
Here’s a postcard for ya. Taken on the streets of Utrecht where my daughter’s been doing a term abroad. A really great University town where bicycles dominate and the beer is good.
At large, Dee Why, Surf Reports.
At large, Big Picture, Dee Why, Surf Reports.
According to the charts, at Dee Why, by now it’s supposed to be 2.3m at 11s with 18kn of wind. but it’s windless and there’s no sign yet of the impending swell. Small waves just folding over. Quite a bunch of people down at Long Reef, but in the 10 minutes I stood there looking up the beach, I didn’t see anyone catch anything. Not a soul in the water at Dee Why. Time will tell, I guess. I took a couple of photos, and I’l try to figure out how to load them.
Beautiful morning… blue sky, sunny, mild offshore breeze and some small to medium size waves from East North East….almost Summery. Tides still a bit low for my taste… and will see if the early crowd thins out later.
Forecast max of 25.