Posts in At large

Chest to shoulder at magnets but straight as

Posted on May 18th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

There are waves this monring, but shutdowns are the rule. Is it some kind of metaphor? Wind was light WSW at 10kts early, but it’s set to go south (although not pick up much) later. You need to hit the south swell magnets to get a wave.
Gotta run, doing handing out at my local polling station!

Looks makeable, but it wasn’t

One at the point and one at the beach

Nup, not makeable aat No Mans

Super straight lines

Northy has a few hopefuls, but not the spot really

South Narrabeen patterned


My bad, there were waves and here are some pictures

Posted on May 14th, 2019 in At large.

Left early without being able to see waves properly, so under-called it. Sorry!

The reality is that magnets like north Curly were producing head high things on sets…

North Curly sets bombing

He made it out too. South Curly 1010 

Came back with a board to Longy later but south wind was beginning to texture it up and most of the shories were unmakeable shutdowns – although in the shoulder high range. Tide too low I’d say.

Moment of glory at Longy

Kinda bumpy but rideable at Longy bombie

Long Reef 1100 

Went around the corner to White Rock where a person had it to themselves. Although it was offshore, the wait for a catchable wave was pretty long so I figured it probably couldn’t handle even two of us.

White rock teaser 1125

Learning about the intertidal zone at Long Reef

Some kind of powered foil-board thingy off Long Reef


Flat as a tack for the early, but could be big later

Posted on May 11th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

There’s a dangerous surf warning for later in the day, but as the morning kicked off there wasn’t a hint of swell to be seen along the beaches. Wind was already 15-20 kts from the WNW as of 0700, but by midday we should be seeing 25-40 kts from the west. The swell should start to ramp up noticeably this morning and by late afternoon the Bureau says we should have 3-4 metres of south swell out at sea. Given the powerful offshore wind, I’m not expecting anything lke 3-4 metre faces though.

Tide was low at 0735 and will be back to high at 1440. Ocean temperature is sitting on 21C.

Outlook is for today’s swell to fade out within 24 hours of peaking, so it looks like the best shot at a wave will be tomorrow morning at south magnets. With luck the SW wind won’t be too crazy for the first session.

The rest of the week is currently not shaping to be all that exciting. In fact on current projections we’re looking at near-flat to flat by midweek – and it could stay that way into next weekend.

If you’re on the Northern Beaches today, why not catch a bus, walk, jog, or cycle to Manly to join the Surfrider crew and friends at 3pm for Hands Across the Sands to protect the Sydney basin by showing our opposition to seismic testing off our coast. Seismic surveying involves generating sound impluses every few seconds from an array of guns to create sound pulses into the 200+ dB range (that’s much louder than standing next to a jet engine at full throttle). Created by an array towed by a survey vessel, the sound is detectable hundreds of kilometres away. The impact is felt right across the marine environment, starting at the level of zooplankton and going right to the top of the foodchain.

 

Micro A-frame at No Mans

One person waiting at Northy

Flat at south Narrabeen 0645

 

Weather Situation

A complex low pressure system in the Tasman Sea is generating vigourous south to southwesterly winds along southern parts of the coast, extending to central coastal areas during today. The complex low is expected to move rapidly away to the east on Sunday, with winds easing as a high drifts across from the west. By Monday the high should be centred over the Tasman Sea, with winds tending east to northeasterly.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Westerly 25 to 35 knots turning southwesterly during the morning. Winds reaching up to 40 knots in the late morning and early afternoon.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 4 metres offshore.
Swell
South to southeasterly below 0.5 metres, tending south to southwesterly 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the morning, then tending southerly 3 to 4 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm offshore this morning.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Sunday 12 May

Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots offshore early in the morning. Winds turning south to southeasterly below 10 knots in the early afternoon.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning, then decreasing below 1 metre during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 2 to 2.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions in the morning are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Monday 13 May

Winds
Variable about 10 knots becoming northerly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Postcards on the way home

Posted on May 10th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
On the long drive home from the far north coast and not looking like we’re getting in the water today. Lennox/Ballina was seeing only weak short-period little wind waves this morning. The wind was coming up from the north too. Glad we got that amazing little afternoon sesh at Boulder yesterday…
Tomorrow looks like being crazy windy in Sydney but that won’t stop me joining my Surfrider Foudation friends at Manly beach to be part of the Hands Across the Sand at 3 pm.

We want to raise awareness of plans for seismic testing off the coast of Sydney.

The scientists have been warning us for years that we have to wean ourselves off the fossil fuels the testing will look for.

The IPCC warns us we’re in a climate emergency, with maybe a decade to have a 50-50 chance of keeping atmospheric temperatures from rising more than 1.5 degrees – if we can dramatically reduce our carbon pollution. It may sound like a trivial number but it’s not. Our politicians can be left in no doubt about what needs to be done and Hands Across the Sand is one of the ways we let them know we’re serious about trying to head off the climate crisis and the extinction of a million species.
Hope to see you at Manly beach tomorrow afternoon!

Diggers in Coffs 1140, tiny weak wind swell bump and stiff north wind

Diggers maybe three foot faces

0700 at 7-mile in Lennox: short period unsurfable wind bump

Weather Situation

A cold front that is approaching from the state’s west will bring a vigorous west to northwesterly change to coastal areas today, then shifting more southerly on Saturday as a low develops over the Tasman Sea. The low is expected to move rapidly away to the east on Sunday, with winds easing as a strong high drifts across from the west.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Friday for Sydney Coast

Winds
North to northwesterly 15 to 25 knots tending west to northwesterly 20 to 30 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers.

Saturday 11 May

Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Westerly 25 to 30 knots turning southwesterly 20 to 30 knots during the morning, and reaching up to 40 knots during the day.
Seas
2 to 4 metres.
Swell
Southerly below 0.5 metres, tending southwesterly 2 to 3 metres during the morning, then tending southerly 2.5 to 3 metres by early evening.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Sunday 12 May

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots turning south to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the day.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Postcards from Lennox

Posted on May 9th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Spent the day chasing waves. Nothing too remrkable, but there were waist to sometimes a bit bigger sets, so we got wet. And this afternoon, for a brief period we surfed Boulder with chest to shoulder plus bomb sets and only 4 or 5 people in the bath-warm water. You wouldn’t be dead for quids.

Dusk at Boulder

Nice little bank at Boulder

Dancing across the waves

Throwing spray at Sharpes’s beach

Sharpes one of the bigger places today

Sharpes

Fun peak for longboarding at 7-mile this morning

Two people in the water at Lennox 1100

Fat and setty but still pretty at 7-mile


Postcards from Lennox

Posted on May 8th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Sorry, kinda blew it on pictures front. Went surfing when waves were looking their best. Size up here was in the waist to occasionally chest or even shoulder, but period short so it was quite the challenge getting into ’em. Tomorrow looks like being even smaller. Oh well, that’s surfin’.

The right equipment for the small and sideshore conditions this evening

Sea eagle heading home on Weds evening at 7-mile

Afternoon view toward Lennox

Morning check out looked modestly hopeful


Postcards from Arrawarra etc

Posted on May 7th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Small along the north coast this morning, but there were a few little waves to be had. We found some mal-able waist plusses at a sideshore Arrawarra headland. Water was super warm and we did get a few longish, if choppy slides. Can also report that the Woolgoolga-Ballina roadworks slow one’s progress back to 1970’s driving times. Got into Lennox late this afternoon and it seems to be kinda soft, sideshore and waist-ish. Hope tomorrow at least sees cleaner conditions and ideally something worth getting the shortboard out.

Lennox Head in the evening light

Inside Boulder

Little lines at very low tide Boulder

Cruising one at Arrawarra

Arrawarra when we pulled up


Postcards from Creso

Posted on May 7th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
Clear skies and light offshore wind fanning a knee to waist plus swell at Crescent Head this morning. Heaps of people in the water chasing the increasingly fat lines as the incoming tide began to take its toll.
Since we scored last night, we’re getting on the road soon so that we can look elsewhere for post high tide options. With luck I’ll have a few more postcards for you then!

Incoming tide fattening it by 0700, but the crowd had opportunities

Good thing to be doing at 0700 on a Tuesday morning


Postcards from Saltwater and Crescent

Posted on May 6th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,
On surfari up the coast again this week, but this time we’re committed to making it all the way to Lennox. Made a good start by getting waist to chest plus and offshore waves at Saltwater along with 20 or 30 other fine folk. Not brilliant quality overall, but I had fun on my mal.
Went on to Crescent after we finished and got a few more waves with very low tide conditions at Crescent Head. Happily there was enough east in the swell for the odd set to get around the point. The best ones were in the shoulder high range (but mostly it was smaller). They were running a long way down the point and there were some impressive mal riders in the water, so jagging one was something of a challenge. Will be interesting to see what the ‘morrow brings…

Crescent Head rider Mon afternoon

Crescent Head rider Mon afternoon

Crescent Head looking rideable

Crescnt Head about 3pm Monday

Lines at Saltwater 1130 Mon

Saltwater 1130 Monday


Postcards: Crescent morning

Posted on April 30th, 2019 in At large.

Hello Friends,

After an overnight rain shower or three, woke up this morning to find glassy conditions and only a dozen in at the point. It was knee to waist with the odd chest high set wave, so the choice was easy – grab the mal and get out there. Water was warm and waves were getting smaller and steadily less consistent, but we jagged a few tasty little runners. lotta fish action too, and at one point my board was a FAD for a tiny bait ball of 1 cm long fry. Poor little critters were getting hammered by the 10 cm bigger ones. But those guys were getting chased by 30 cm tailor along with the odd passing Tern. Life and death struggles going on all around.

Had planned to make for the far north coast today, but a close examination of the forecasts makes me think we’d be making an effort for onshore and very tiny and weak waves. So, will try again  next week…

In the meantime, some pictures from this morning…

Slow roller 0645

Typical set

Spectacular sky effects

Do-able looking little line at Crescent Head this morning


 

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