Posts in At large

Swell focussing some places and missing others

Posted on May 26th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,
As of 0500 the MHL buoy was recording 2.25 m from the SSE (163°) at 13 seconds. Wind was coming lightly from the west but will gradually come around to the NE by midday. Tide was a 1.55 m high at 0545 and is now dropping to a 0.48 low at 1155.
Swell was largely missing the Collaroy-Narrabeen stretch. There was some size up at Northy but the swell direction was wrong for the place and no one was in the water. Around at Longy conditions were somewhat choppy but the shories were producing some punchy sections with wave faces into the head high range. As you moved down the beach, the surface cleaned up, but the bank situation is still pretty bad (lots of shutdowns) and there were only a handful of hopefuls chasing head plus sets. The main action was at the point where there around 20 people in the water by 0700 when I was grabbing the pictures.
Outlook is for the energy to stick around all day but to be on the fade. With luck tomorrow will have something as well because thereafter it looks like three or four days of small and marginal at best on most of the models. That said, those same models are showing a fresh south pulse filling in overnight Wednesday. If today’s predictions pan out, it’ll keep building into the 3+ metre range and stay there through next weekend. Wind call is for S-SW across the period in question. So, could be interesting…
Have yourself a top old Saturday and beginners, maybe sit this one out!

Out for a paddle amongst the lines at White Rock

Zippy shories at Longy

Driving take off after a long wait for the right one

Point doing its thing at 0700

Longy flyaway

Our orb coming into view at 0647

Teaser shutdown south Narrabeen

Solid crew and the fun ones at 0655

Weather Situation

A strong high pressure system over the southwestern Tasman Sea is very slowly moving east and directing southeast to northeasterly winds along the New South Wales coast. North to northeasterly winds are expected to extend throughout the waters during Tuesday ahead of a front and associated southerly change along the south coast late Tuesday.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
West to southwesterly about 10 knots becoming north to northeasterly in the middle of the day.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Sunday 27 May

Winds
North to northwesterly about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres tending south to southeasterly 1.5 metres in the afternoon.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Monday 28 May

Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Late morning report

Posted on May 22nd, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Dropped my mate off at the airport this morning, so running a little behind the usual schedule. The good thing is that it meant I could stop by Curly to see what was happening before checking Dee Why. As of 0830 what was happening was occasional chest plus lines with not too many corners. You did a lot of waiting for the opportunity to get caught behind after your first turn. It was the same around at Dee Why, only a touch smaller. Tide is now coming in to a 1.4 m high at 1445. Will be interesting to see if the swell perks because tomorrow should be quite a bit bigger (see Bureau forecast below).

Have a great day everyone!

Curly crew waiting

 

Curly section at 0830

 

Waiting at the point…

 

Catching little ones in the rocks at the point 0850

 

Yet another shutdown at No Mans around 0900

 

Beach walkers

 

Near the Pole 0845

Weather Situation

A strong high pressure system over the Bight is maintaining a ridge to the east, while a series of cold fronts skim past the southeast corner of New South Wales. Little change to this pattern is expected during the coming days, with the high moving over southeast Australia at the end of the week.

Forecast for Tuesday until midnight

Winds
West to southwesterly 15 to 20 knots tending south to southwesterly in the evening, reaching 25 knots offshore.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

Wednesday 23 May

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 25 knots becoming variable 10 knots in the afternoon, then north to northeasterly in the evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 metre around midday.
Swell
Southerly 3 metres, increasing to 3 to 4 metres during the morning.
Weather
Mostly sunny.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Thursday 24 May

Winds
Variable about 10 knots becoming southerly 10 to 15 knots during the morning.
Seas
Around 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Postcards from Lennox, Boulder, Crescent

Posted on May 18th, 2018 in At large.

Getting impressively high for such a tiny, gutless wave at Crescent Head at dusk

Half an hour of light left…

Will the lines still be here tomorrow morning…?

Much smaller at Boulder by midday

Waiting…

soft but more than enough size at Lennox Head for the dozen or so in the water

Mat riders team up for a little Lennox Head runner

Generating energy from the weak but surfable waves at Lennox Head late morning Friday

Another set comes into view

Watcha lookin’ at mate!

Lennox from town beach

Early morning wave at 7-mile

Lennox view

If only these sections were more frequent at the reefs, Lennox Head

Racing out to get a few before his heat

Early morning small lines showing up at the poine

Teaser!


Postcards from up North: 7-mile and Boulder

Posted on May 17th, 2018 in At large.

SUP rider on the reefs off Lennox at 0730


Postcards from Byron and beyond

Posted on May 16th, 2018 in At large.

Soft lines at Lennox this afternoon

Hangin’ out at Lennox, noon

The right equipment for the weak swell at Lennox

Famous lighthouse

North of the Wreck tiny longboard lines 0930

Riding these on a shortboard wasn’t nearly as fun. North of the Wreck 0930

Johnson’s shories were shutting down heavily but for a second or two…

The takeoff was the thing at Johnson’s 0900

Sole rider doing the soul ride at the Pass


Postcards from Lennox Head

Posted on May 16th, 2018 in At large.

Exiting one

In the corner at Lennox 0715

Stoked!

Lennox Head beach 0715

The odd wave at the Point

Jagging one before school

Swell close together and piling inat 0700

Taking the top off one at Lennox 0700


Postcards from up the coast

Posted on May 15th, 2018 in At large.

Crescent head early: high tide, inconsistent, fat, slow. Prob. much better on lower tide…

Bomb set & rider didn’t make the section. Crescent Head, 0735

 

Arrawarra 1135: Irregular sets in the knee to waist plus range, dozen out, weak and slow looking.


Wooli breakwater pretty but really small and well protected from the south wind. No one out. Size prob knee to knee plus…

Wooli up the beach a little peak trying to do something but failing 1300 Tuesday

Where I’ll be until Friday morning…


Flat early but later should be interesting

Posted on May 12th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Unsurfably tiny along the beaches at daybreak Saturday. I grabbed a few snaps between showers to document the flatness. However, as the MHL buoy shot below reveals, the swell should come up dramatically later today.

As Saturday kicked off the wind was 15-20 kts from the west. It should pick up and swing SW soon and pick up. The swell should be obvious at south swell magnets by early afternoon. At 0400 swell period down at Eden was in the 13-sec range. If the swell builds to the 2.5 – 4 metre range as predicted, there should be some pretty solid sets at dead south spots. This is one of those days when swell could hit some places dramatically while largely missing others. The more SW component, the less energy we’ll see.

Tide hit a 1.56 m high at 0535 and is dropping to a 0.47 m low at 1155.

 

 

 

Swell showing down south early

 

Nice cusping pattern along the beach

 

Northy stalwarts waiting at 0645

 

Zippo at Dee Why

 

Lone hopeful at No Mans 0640

 

Micro at the point as of 0640

Weather Situation

A complex low pressure system over the southwestern Tasman Sea will move towards the northeast today and direct a vigorous south to southwesterly change across the coastal waters. Winds are expected to gradually ease during Sunday and Monday as the low moves further east.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Gale Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Westerly 25 to 35 knots turning south to southwesterly 25 to 40 knots in the late morning and early afternoon.
Seas
2 to 3 metres, increasing to 3 to 4 metres during the morning.
Swell
South to southwesterly 1.5 to 2.5 metres, increasing to 2.5 to 4 metres around midday, then tending southerly 3 to 4 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Cloudy. 95% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Sunday 13 May

Strong Wind Warning for Sunday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southerly 25 to 30 knots.
Seas
2.5 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning, then increasing to 3 to 4 metres later in the evening.
Weather
Cloudy. 95% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Monday 14 May

Winds
Southerly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
2.5 to 3 metres.
Swell
Southerly 3 to 4 metres, decreasing to 3 metres during the afternoon.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm.

Mostly near flat but…

Posted on May 9th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Made the Manly run this morning and grabbed a few snaps on the way home. As you can see there are rideable sets. I’d call the biggest ones at Manly and Curly waist to chest but at Dee Why I saw at least one set that was near shoulder. The harsh reality is that you do a fair amount of waiting for them to turn up. Average size of the swell at sea as of 0700 was 0.9 m. It was coming from 149°, which is a good thing for lots of our beaches and the average period was sitting just a little under 14 seconds, which is just generally a good thing.
Wind is set to be light and variable this morning (it was coming from the west when I checked) and tide is currently dropping to a 0.6 m low at 0940. It’ll come back into a 1.3 m high at 1600. Should be sunny and a warm 25. UV’s losing its sting and is expected to be 4 from 1020-1320.
Checking the models, it would seem that we might have a smaller conditions tomorrow and then near flat Friday as the wind starts to pick up strongly ahead of a major south pulse overnight into Saturday morning. And then on Sunday it could go nuts as wind gets into the 20-30 kt range from the SSW and the dead south swell just goes stupid at 4-6 metres (depending on who you believe) at 12 seconds. Some models project the swell to be into the 3 metre range through Tuesday, and then it drops back into the 2 metre range to see out the week. Yikes! Looks like your correspondent chose an interesting week for another trip up the coast.
Have a great day everyone!

Finding the right line and stepping up – Dee Why beach 0840

 

Caught behind in a low tide shorey at Dee Why 0835

 

How it looked 99% of the time at Dee Why this am

 

Point too small to surf

 

Hmmmm….

 

Mid-Steyne at 0810

 

Bomb set at south Curly 0820

 

Queenscliff set 0810

Weather Situation

A trough over northern parts of the coast today moves east directing moderate southerly winds over the area, while elsewhere about the coastal waters a high pressure ridge results in northerly winds for the remainder of today. Northwest to southwesterly winds are expected to strengthen on Thursday and Friday as a significant cold front crosses New South Wales, and a complex low pressure system is expected to form as this front moves across Bass Strait. This low is forecast to linger off the southern New South Wales or eastern Victorian coast until later on the weekend.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds
Variable about 10 knots tending north to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots during the afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
1st Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres later in the evening.
2nd Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Weather
The chance of a shower or thunderstorm offshore this morning. Mostly sunny afternoon.

Thursday 10 May

Winds
West to northwesterly about 10 knots tending north to northwesterly 15 to 20 knots in the morning then then shifting west to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots in the evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres by early evening.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
2nd Swell
East to northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Friday 11 May

Winds
West to northwesterly 20 to 30 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 to 3 metres during the morning.
Swell
East to northeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm in the afternoon and evening.

Close to perfect flatness

Posted on May 5th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Distinctly cool this morning at daybreak. Wind was lightly offshore early and it’ll be sunny all day as we head to a high of 22. As the pictures show, there are only the tiniest of tiny ripples coming in. If you’re really keen and have something buoyant, it’s possible to get the odd knee high bump that may even run a few metres. But for the most part it’s not really surfable in any meaningful sense. And, it looks as though we’re going to be stuck in this pattern for another 4 or 5 days. It’s a classic winter flat spell.

The long range models are currently showing a south swell event filling in from around Friday and lasting potentially into the early part of the following week. If the forecast pans out, we could see 3+ metres at south magnets. Of course at 7 days out, a lot can change, so just pencil it in for now.

Have a great Saturday one and all!

Lifeguard hut left (faded a few seconds later)

 

Screaming wall peels into Longy

 

Utterly flat at the point 0640

 

Looking for a bump at Longy

 

Northy showing the faintest of faint lines

 

Good morning!

Weather Situation

A cold front and south to southwesterly change is moving along the far north coast this morning and then over the Tasman Sea as a high pressure ridge pushes across the state. This ridge will cause winds about central parts to become variable over the weekend. By Monday winds are expected to turn northerly as the high pressure system moves over the Tasman Sea.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
Southwesterly 15 to 20 knots decreasing to about 10 knots in the middle of the day then becoming easterly in the afternoon.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Sunday 6 May

Winds
West to northwesterly below 10 knots becoming north to northeasterly in the afternoon.
Seas
Below 0.5 metres.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Monday 7 May

Winds
Northerly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly below 1 metre.
Weather
Mostly sunny.

 

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