Posts in At large

Do something else day

Posted on February 20th, 2018 in At large.

The Kick not kicking

Nothing doing at Collaroy

Nice sky

Exciting conditions at Collaroy

Brownwater teasing but weak and brief

 
Hello Friends,

A grim morning from a surfing perspective. Wind was blowing hard from the SSE early, so the only hope is really protected corners like Collaroy. Unfortunately, as the pictures show, there’s not enough swell energy from the right direction to light the place up. Instead it was weak, confused and small.
The MHL buoy was seeing a mix of NNE and S swell component. The dominant energy was coming from the south at 13 seconds apart but was only averaging around 1.5 metres.
So, a day to give it a miss.
Tomorrow the wind should throttle back, but it’ll still be onshore and the swell looks likely to be smaller. On Thursday the wind goes back to the NE quarter and it should be light early when, the Bureau says, we could also see a little bump in the south swell energy. Friday looks similar at this stage. Weather should be cloudy across the period.
Have yourself a great Tuesday everyone and get up to some good where you can!

Weather Situation

A high pressure system south of Tasmania with a ridge to the north is directing southeasterly winds along the New South Wales coast. Winds will turn southeast to northeasterly during Wednesday as the high moves east across the southern Tasman Sea maintaining the ridge to the northwest.

Forecast for Tuesday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Tuesday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Southeasterly 15 to 25 knots, reaching up to 30 knots during the morning. Winds decreasing to about 10 knots in the late evening.
Seas
2 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Easterly 2 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
2nd Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy. 60% chance of showers early this morning.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions in the early morning are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Wednesday 21 February

Winds
Southeasterly about 10 knots becoming east to northeasterly in the evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres, tending southeasterly 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy.

Thursday 22 February

Winds
Northeasterly about 10 knots increasing to 10 to 15 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres offshore during the afternoon or evening.
2nd Swell
Southeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres, tending easterly below 1 metre during the afternoon or evening.
Weather
Cloudy.

Sizable sets this morning

Posted on February 18th, 2018 in At large.

Sole rider pulls into one at Gardens

Lefts and rights at Northy for the Sunday crowds

Standing room only at the point

Another set arrives at the Pole

Lining up and shutting down the order of the day on sets at Dee Why beach, 0700

Point rider

Bigger sets had some heft

 

Hello Friends,

Had a look around at about 0700 this morning to see what the swell was doing. It’s an interesting mix of south and NE energy. Wave faces on the sets are solidly overhead. I’d call it 1.5x. The problem is that the swell is mature and that means the beach break options are seeing major shutdown action, particular when the bigger sets roll in. The point at Dee Why was very well attended (I counted about 25 people at 0700) and there was something of a wait for the bigger sets, but it wasn’t bad. Up the beach toward the Pole sets looked a bit bigger, but there was the shutting down problem. Around at Collaroy-Narrabeen, the beaches were looking peak-free but at Northy people were finding something. (I had a look at Northy yesterday and at midday at least, the quality was not great. The banks just weren’t operating at their usual high standard.)
Surface conditions were reasonably smooth for the early session. Wind will pick up and be 15-20 kts NE by this afternoon. Tide is coming into a 1.7 m high at 1045. It should be mostly sunny after the morning cloud burns off and our high is set to be 29. Water is a crazy 25.

Swell should continue to pump for the next few days with early mornings being the best hope for smooth conditions. With luck there’ll be something surfable all week…

Have a top old Sunday and know your limits (especially you beginners!)

Weather Situation

A high pressure system over the western Tasman Sea is directing southeasterly winds along the north coast and northeasterly winds along the south coast. As the high moves further east, an approaching front over the southern ocean will bring a southerly change to the south coast later tonight or early Monday. In the wake of the front, a new high pressure system will strengthen to the south of Tasmania and extend a ridge along the New South Wales coast, resulting in fresh to strong south to southeasterly winds along the entire coast from late Monday.

Forecast for Sunday until midnight

Winds
Northeasterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Easterly 2 metres.
2nd Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the afternoon.
Weather
Cloud clearing.
Caution
Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Monday 19 February

Strong Wind Warning for Monday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northeasterly 15 to 20 knots becoming variable about 10 knots early in the morning then becoming south to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots in the middle of the day. Winds reaching up to 30 knots in the late evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Northeasterly 2 to 2.5 metres.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

Tuesday 20 February

Winds
Southerly 25 to 30 knots turning southeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the morning.
Seas
2.5 to 3 metres, decreasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Northeasterly 2.5 metres, tending easterly 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the morning.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 2 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy. 60% chance of showers.
Caution
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.

A few piccies from Curly around midday

Posted on February 17th, 2018 in At large.

Curly was about the cleanest looking spot I saw this morning – radically better than the slop fest I enjoyed with three others at the point an hour before. Even so, Curly was pretty weak looking and kinda fat. Lovely day though and good to be in the water.

The crew at one of the North Curly peaks around 1230

Watching a set

Maybe 5 metres from dry sand…

Curly somewhat fat but sets looked ok

South Curly more wind affected

 


Some swell, some wind

Posted on February 17th, 2018 in At large.

Dee Why point 0640

Near the pole 0640

Not super clean or very big at the point, but rideable

Swell starting to show at south Narrabeen

Kneelo jags one at Northy 0630

Near the Pole, 0640

Hello Friends,

Nothing like as big as most of the models predicted this morning. But the swell’s definitely picking up and the cyclone is still out there pushing the energy our way. Surface conditions were junky and choppy from first light thanks to a steady ENE breeze. It was blowing about 5-10 kts when I grabbed the pics around 0630 and the Bureau tells us it’ll pick up to 15-20 kts later. As of 0400 there was a combo of south and NE swells. The south component was slightly more dominant but both are close to the 2 metre mark with periods around 12 seconds.

Tide hits a 1.75 m high at 1015.

As the pictures show, waves were in the chest high range and kinda messy looking. And the latest run of the models suggests it will stick around this intensity until Tuesday-ish when we could see a potentially significant bump up. But right now, it would seem the really big stuff will be up north. Quality is shaping to be not so red hot thanks to a steady supply of onshore wind right across the period.

Have yourself a great Saturday. I’ll be keeping an eye on it of course, so check back for more pics and thoughts later in the day.

 


Dodging showers for dodgy waves

Posted on February 3rd, 2018 in At large.

Hopefuls hanging at the point at Narrabeen

Bodysurfer wades out into sketchy conditions at south Narra 0635

Some activity at No Mans 0655

Lumpy bumpy but occasionally rideable at Dee Why

Bush and rainbow

Hello Friends,

Surface conditions were choppy at 0630 and yesterday’s little south swell seems to be this morning’s littler south swell. There were a couple of people in the water near the rocks at North Narrabeen and one intrepid sort wading out at south Narra for a bodybash. Around at Dee Why the odd waist high dribbler was being caught at the point and along the beach, but quality, as elsewhere, was not impressive.

Tide is heading in to a 1.9 m high at 1120 and by then the wind should be around to the SE by the time it peaks. Plus the already weak swell is on the decline – and it’s going to keep fading slowly through Monday.

 

Weather Situation

A strong high pressure system southeast of the Bight with a ridge along the New South Wales coast is very slowly moving east directing south to southeasterly winds across the western Tasman Sea. Winds will turn southeast to northeasterly during Tuesday as the high moves over the southwestern Tasman Sea maintaining the ridge along the coast.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Winds
Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
1st Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning, then decreasing to around 1 metre during the afternoon.
2nd Swell
Easterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers. A thunderstorm possible this morning.

Sunday 4 February

Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing to about 10 knots in the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the morning.
2nd Swell
Easterly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre by early evening.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 60% chance of showers.

Monday 5 February

Winds
South to southeasterly about 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
1st Swell
Easterly 1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing to around 1 metre during the evening.
2nd Swell
Southerly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Glassy, grey but not flat at 0830

Posted on February 2nd, 2018 in At large.

Fat and full but sort of rideable No Mans at 0830.

 

Dee Why producing diversions for the crew.

 

Barely surfable point.

 

A few little bumps for the keen at south Narrabeen.

 

The Northy crew are on the little high tide bumps at 0840.

 

Hello Friends,

Still not quite in synch with Sydney time, so another late start for you correspondent. Definitely a few small knee to maybe waist plusses at Dee Why and along the Narrabeen stretch. Wind was not a factor as of 0830 although the skies were murky and punctuated by the odd shower. Definitely a more wintry than summery feel to the day.

The MHL buoy was showing 2.3 metres of 10-sec SSE swell at 0700. Tide was coming into the 2 metre high tide at 1030 and the Bureau was forecasting a decreasing energy trend for the waves today. Beachwatch is calling the water 23oC – but everybody seemed to be wearing rubber when I checked.

Outlook is for waves to weaken very gradually over the weekend, but with luck they won’t fade out completely and on the right tides at the right spots, there should still be knee to waist high grovellers.

Have a great day everyone and keep on smilin’!

 

Weather Situation

A strong and slow moving high pressure system is situated south of the Bight and extends a ridge along the New South Wales coast. At the same time, Ex-Tropical Cyclone Fehi is located over the South Island of New Zealand and is weakening. A persistent southerly airstream is being directed along the coast between the two systems.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Winds
Southerly 10 to 15 knots, reaching up to 20 knots inshore in the early afternoon.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres inshore during the afternoon.
1st Swell
Southerly 1.5 to 2 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres by early evening.
2nd Swell
Easterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 80% chance of showers.

Saturday 3 February

Winds
Southerly 10 to 15 knots turning southeasterly early in the morning. Winds reaching up to 20 knots offshore in the evening.
Seas
Around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore during the morning.
Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres, tending southerly 1.5 to 2 metres during the morning, then tending southeasterly 1.5 metres around midday.
Weather
Cloudy. 80% chance of showers. The chance of a thunderstorm in the afternoon and early evening.

Sunday 4 February

Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots decreasing to about 10 knots during the morning.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, decreasing below 1 metre during the morning.
1st Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 metres, tending southerly around 1 metre during the morning.
2nd Swell
Southeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres, tending easterly around 1 metre during the afternoon.
Weather
Partly cloudy. 50% chance of showers.

Looking like dropping fast for Sydney

Posted on January 19th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

After four days of 3m+ swell, it looks as though Sydney is going to see a steady decline in energy levels across the day. As of midnight the MHL buoy was showing 1.5 m at 8 sec. There could still be some bigger sets in the mix, but by the time the dawn patrol paddles out, I’d guess those will be few and far between. Tide was low at 0405 and will be back to a deepish 1.75 m at 1035. Wind was out of the north around 5 kts at 0520. It’ll gradually track around to the NE by this afternoon.

If I were in Sydney and looking at the 29°C later, I’d be heading down to the beach for a cooling splash early. My guess is that magnet spots should be in the chest plus range with maybe one or two head pluses in the morning session. So definitely fun.

As for the week ahead, well, may I direct your attention to the Goat’s latest surf forecast.

Surf outlook here is also on the marginal side. After four days of solid swell, I’m not sure there’ll be much in the tank when I go for a look at prospects in a few hours… if I spot anything, I’ll try to get a postcard or two to share. Can’t really complain though. Where I surfed there were never more than a dozen people in the water at any one time. Plus the water was unusually warm (15°C) for winter time. Air temps have been crazy too – basically t-shirt weather during the day.

Have a great day one and all!

Swell picture for this morning…

Weather Situation

A high pressure system just off the New South Wales coast is expected to remain near-stationary during the next few days, maintaining generally southerly winds along the northern coast and northerly winds along the southern coast.

Forecast for Friday until midnight

Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 to 2 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Saturday 20 January

Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Sunny.

Sunday 21 January

Winds
North to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots increasing to 15 to 20 knots during the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
South to southeasterly below 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Postcards from Cali-No. 2

Posted on January 12th, 2018 in At large.

 

Hello Friends,

A few snaps for you from Santa Barbara and thereabouts…

(above) From Surfline.com’s California Street, Ventura cam at dusk today. Very little showing in the way of swell along the southern California coast. We’re hoping for a gradual improvement tomorrow…

With all roads between Santa Barbara and Ventura closed, the local tourist ferry operators who usually take people on day trips to the Channel Islands are running boatloads of commuters up and down the coast. It takes about 1:30 hrs to go from Ventura to Santa Barbara. Once the Freeway is opened on Monday (we hope) the trips will stop. That breakwater in the background is the one at Santa Barbara where the Kirra-esque Sandspit take off is (when there’s swell!)

Just an odd looking frame of my board shooting into the air at the end of a wave. I surfed yesterday at Campus Point in Santa Barbara. Waves were super gutless and on this occasion I just let the board sink until it popped up again.

My shadow self-portrait on a knee high dribbler at Campus. Water about 15C, air 20C.

More tomorrow I hope


Postcards from Cali: crazy weather

Posted on January 10th, 2018 in At large.

Hello Friends,

Diamond Head and rainbow

.

Let’s get the Sydney surf situation taken care of before the postcards…

At 0950 there was a light and steady 7-9 kt SSE breeze knocking the top off another day of gutless and tiny wind bump. That said, it does appear from the cams that it’s a touch bigger (ankle to waist) than when I last saw it. If you have to miss it, you aren’t missing much of anything. Judging from the forecast models, the situation should stumble along more or less as it is until Friday when there might be a little south pulse with NE wind combo.

The long range models are showing prospects for an intense south swell event, but it’ll likely be smashed by the wind (also south) for a couple days before possibly settling down into some fun conditions mid next week.

The flight from Oz to the US west coast involved a brief stop in Honolulu, so I can report that there was very little if anything showing on the town side. Did get a nice picture of Diamond Head and a rainbow as we climbed out again for the leg to LA.

Got into California after dark so didn’t get a look at the (non) surf situation until yesterday. No hope of a wave sadly. And the same again today (see below).

California had it’s first significant rain event in 300 days last night. We saw 75-100 mm and because of the terrible fires of a couple of weeks ago, there’s nothing on the hillsides to stop the water from carrying huge amounts of mud and debris down onto the coastal plain. As I write this the 101 Freeway that runs along the coast near where the fires were is still closed from all the stuff coming off the hills and mountains. It’s a really big deal and we’re still waiting to hear what sort of death toll there’s been. 8 people were killed by mudslides in the Montecito area just south of Santa Barbara – and there may be more. Helicopters have been flying over our place all day as they help with the rescue efforts. Scary stuff.

Hope you’re staying safe and well!

 

Weather Situation

A trough along the mid north coast is slowly moving northward, with northerly winds shifting southerly in its wake. The trough is expected to stall on the far north coast on Thursday and then dissipate, as a high pressure system moves east over the southern Tasman Sea and extends a ridge to the coast. This will cause winds to shift north to northeasterly throughout by Friday, freshening ahead of the next front, which will bring a vigorous southerly change to the coast during the weekend.

Forecast for Wednesday until midnight

Winds
Southerly 15 to 20 knots, reaching up to 25 knots offshore early in the morning. Winds tending southeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the early afternoon.
Seas
2 metres, decreasing to 1.5 metres during the morning, then decreasing to 1 metre during the afternoon.
Swell
Southerly around 1 metre, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Weather
Cloudy.

Thursday 11 January

Winds
East to southeasterly below 10 knots tending east to northeasterly 10 to 15 knots in the early afternoon.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Friday 12 January

Winds
Northeasterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Southeasterly 1 to 1.5 metres.
Weather
Partly cloudy.

Barely anything and mostly flat

Posted on January 6th, 2018 in At large.

Chasing tiny bumps on low tide at Northy 0620          .

Hello Friends,

Low tide early and light NE breeze ruffling the surface for the dawn patrol. The only place I saw a wave ridden was at Northy where, as the pic above shows, it was struggling to make the knee high mark. As the tide comes in to a 1.8 m high at 1230, the wind will ramp up and so it just may be possible to find a fat little bump somewhere. However, you’ll really need to dial down your expectations for anything beyond barely catchable dribble.

As of 0400 the MHL buoy was showing a metre of sub-6 sec SSE chop. And it looks as though the microscopic conditions prevail up and down the entire East Coast.

We’re in for an absolute stinker tomorrow but there might be a bit more NE wind chop to chase for the early. It’s set to go SE in the afternoon – which ought to help with the heat, but won’t do the tiny surf any favours.

From the look of the models, next week is going to be really small to flat with only short period and small wind chop.  One of the more hopeful data interpretations is showing some slight hope for south magnets on Wednesday morning. Hope for your sake that it plays out that way. I’ll of course be looking for a wave in southern California where at the moment it’s also really small – and cold. Postcards to come!

Have a great Saturday everyone!

 

South Narra nothin’

.

Marquesas micro bumps

.

At least he’s getting some exercise – near the pole 0630

.

All’s quiet at Dee Why

.

Weather Situation

A high pressure system over the Tasman Sea is directing north to northeasterly winds along the New South Wales coast. A low pressure trough is expected to bring a southerly change to the southern half of the coast on Sunday.

Forecast for Saturday until midnight

Strong Wind Warning for Saturday for Sydney Coast

Winds
Northeasterly 15 to 20 knots increasing to 20 to 25 knots in the afternoon. Winds reaching 30 knots in the evening.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres, increasing to 1.5 to 2.5 metres during the afternoon.
Swell
Southeasterly below 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Sunday 7 January

Winds
Northerly 15 to 25 knots shifting south to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon and evening.
Seas
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 to 1.5 metres during the morning.
Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Weather
Sunny.

Monday 8 January

Winds
South to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots tending northwest to northeasterly during the morning then tending northeast to southeasterly during the afternoon.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Northeasterly below 1 metre inshore, increasing to 1 to 1.5 metres offshore.
Weather
Partly cloudy. The chance of a thunderstorm in the afternoon and evening.

 

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