Smaller, but far from flat

Posted by: on June 8th, 2010

Hello Friends,

With a wave of its magic wand, the Bureau has banished the rain forecast and we now learn we’re in for a run of fine weather. This morning there’s still cloud about and the swell has dropped markedly. Happily it’s nothing like flat. Indeed, as one of my pictures shows, there are still head high plus moments to be had thanks to two metres of 9 sec SE swell.

The Bureau confirms yesterday’s call by the models for a steady decline in wave energy through to about Wednesday lunchtime… and then a new pulse of south energy is set to fill in by late in the day. Thursday morning currently looks pretty interesting – potentially offshore and 1.5-2x overhead at south swell spots if the models have it right.

Looking out to next weekend, the models are, shall we say, extremely hopeful. Or perhaps, hopeful of extremes! They are currently projecting a very long period and large south pulse (3-4 metres @ up to 16 sec). Since this is right out at the limit of the forecast, I’d treat it with a great deal of caution. It could happen, but long experience has shown that such predictions typically attenuate as we get closer to the day in question. Still, it’s never a bad thing to see massive swell and offshore winds in prospect!

Have yourself a top old day!

Sydney Coastal Waters, Broken Bay to Port Hacking and 60nm seawards:
Tuesday until midnight: Wind: South to southwesterly 5 to 10 knots becoming light during the morning then tending north to northwesterly up to 10 knots by early evening. Winds 10 to 15 knots later in the evening.Sea: Below 1 metre.Swell: Southerly 3 metres decreasing to about 2 metres from midday.
Wednesday: Wind: Northwesterly 15 to 20 knots increasing to 15 to 25 knots during the morning then tending west to northwesterly 20 to 30 knots around midday. Winds westerly 30 to 35 knots later in the evening.Sea: 1 to 2 metres increasing to 2 to 3 metres around midday then increasing to 3 to 4 metres later in the evening.Swell: Southeasterly about 2 metres.
Thursday: Wind: West to southwesterly 25 to 35 knots becoming southwesterly 20 to 30 knots during the afternoon then tending west to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots during the evening.

1 Comment

  1. CBK on June 8th 2010, 6:49 am

    I got my first barrel today at Dee Why point. So yeah I thought the surf was SICK today! Yew.

    Yours Truely,
    Stoked Froather!

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