Hello Friends,
Solid and relatively clean looking south swell for the early risers this Wednesday. Set wave faces were 1.5x overhead and it looked pretty consistent at around 0730. A crew were on it at Dee Why point and there were a few scattered in the beachy. But the largely featureless banks are making the latter less than attractive.
The MHL buoy is showing the average swell height at sea to be around the 2.5 metre mark. As importantly, the average period has climbed from 7 seconds yesterday at this time to close to 9 seconds. There should be any number of surf options around Sydney today based on those numbers.
The southerly is set to be 15-25 kts this morning but it should fade back a little into the 10-20 kt range.
One consideration for most spots is the big high tide at 1020. It’ll drop pretty quickly though because the 1700 low is only 0.3m.
We’re supposed to have sunny periods (there was one when I wrote this) too.
From the shape of this morning’s swell forecast model riffing, we should have morning surf sessions through to Saturday, but the peak size is going to be around midday for Sydney on current reckoning.
Get out there if you can and have yourself a good one!
Weather Situation
A low pressure system over the central Tasman Sea is moving to the southeast, while a high south of the Bight extends a ridge towards New South Wales. The high will slowly drift east during the next day or two, with a ridge strengthening along the Australian east coast. During this time a broad trough of low pressure is expected to develop across the northwest of the state. The trough may deepen during the weekend as an upper-level feature approaches, although it’s movement is likely to be restricted by the high lingering over the Tasman Sea through to early next week. This very slow-moving pattern will see a shift to warmer northeasterly winds along most of the coast during the weekend.
Forecast for Wednesday until midnight
Winds
Southerly 15 to 25 knots easing to 10 to 20 knots by the afternoon.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Weather
Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore in the afternoon and evening.
Thursday 15 December
Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots tending east to southeasterly up to 10 knots later in the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southerly 2 to 3 metres.
Friday 16 December
Winds
Becoming east to southeasterly 5 to 10 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly about 2 metres.
