"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris

Goin’ quiet

Hello Friends,

Light north breeze and a small, but not miniscule east wind swell for Sydney this morning. Dial the expectation-o-meter down pretty low and you should be able to talk yourself into a splash at your favourite beach break. Figure knee high to maybe waist on the bombs I’d say.

The Bureau sez: North to northeasterly 5 to 10 knots, increasing to 10 to 15 knots during the morning and 15 to 20 knots in the afternoon.

Tide’s low around 0845, so the incoming push might help a bit.

Looks from the forecasts as though the next week will be pretty quiet wave-wise for Sydney. Seems as if all the interesting systems are going to stay well clear of the swell windows.

….
Your postcards from California show Campus point today. We actually had some shoulder high sets yesterday, but it’s faded to knee high this morning, so not sure that I’ll get wet on what is for me the first day of 2012… however, in a couple days time we’re due for the first big swell of the winter season, so I hope to have something more interesting to share.

(Below) The top of Campus point (so called because it’s within the boundaries of the University of California at Santa Barbara) is the main surf zone. It mostly breaks during the autumn-winter months when the swell is out of the NW. There are a number of distinct peaks, so it spreads the often considerable crowds out.

(Below) Poles is the next distinct break down from the point at Campus. As you may be able to tell from the pic, it’s a well-defined reef that can peel for a hundred metres or more if the swell is big enough. Super fun on a mal, but good for short boards when it’s firing.

(Below) Looking down the point from Poles. On really big swells (only a handful of times in a season), you can pick up a wave from Poles and take it all the way down to the corner at Goleta beach park! Jelly legs material.

Have a good one and Happy New Year!