"Stay happy and you'll be perfectly fine" - Jack Norris

Postcard from Cali: A few little waves at Deveraux

Hello Friends,

Looks as though Sydney’s not all that flash – if the MHL buoy data is anything to go by. About a metre of 9 sec SE swell from the look of it. Still, I reckon there ought to be a few fun little ones around at exposed spots. Looks like the day started out pretty nice.

Low tide around 0810 and high about 220pm shouldn’t hurt the cause.

However, I detect a problem here:

Forecast for Sunday until midnight
Winds
Southerly increasing to 20 to 30 knots around dawn decreasing to 20 to 25 knots around midday then decreasing to 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon. Winds tending south to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots later in the evening.
Seas
Up to 3 metres decreasing to 2 metres around midday then decreasing to below 1 metre by early evening.
Swell
Easterly 1 metre tending southerly about 2 metres from midday, then increasing to about 3 metres this evening.
Weather
Large swells breaking dangerously close inshore.

Coming up on the swell side of the equation, but with a goodly amount of wind. Looks like a good morning to have been up for the early!

Another nice day along the coast of Southern California. And we had little waves too. Mostly waist high and smaller where I surfed (Coal Oil point, aka Deveraux near Isla Vista). The set up is basically a rock anchored sand bottom with a fair amount of kelp. It’s best at mid to high tide, so it was improving while I was in the water. It’s a pretty fat and slow thing, but you can have fun on a mal or a fish because the sections are so forgiving. Water was probably around the 14 mark and after about 90 minutes, my 3/2 was feeling thin. That said, there was a young woman out for quite awhile and she was wearing maybe 100g of lycra. Enviable cold immunity.


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