No waves early but swell on the way later

Posted by: on October 6th, 2017

Hello Friends,
All’s quiet along the beaches as Friday got started. When I checked conditions for the first time at 0800, there was a light SW breeze under high overcast. The ocean was quiet at Dee Why and there didn’t seem to be anyone in the water. The MHL buoy data from 0600 was picking up a metre of 13 sec SE bump. Tide was coming into the 1.7 m high at 0920.
The Bureau says we can expect the wind to ramp up into the 15-25 kts from the south to SW – and the swell should start coming up.
By Saturday morning, the Bureau expects the swell to be around two metres from the south and they’ve hoisted a large and powerful surf warning. The Bureau doesn’t publish a prediction for the period, so we rely on the models for the prediction of around 10 seconds.
As for the next few days and beyond, The Goat’s surf forecast is up, so may I commend it to you.
Have a top old Friday everyone and fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Some kind of production at Dee Why, but nothing at the point for surfers at 0800

No man at No Mans 0800

Tiny along south Narrabeen at 0630

Weather Situation
A trough is bringing a fresh to strong southerly change to southern and central parts of the coast this morning, and will continue to the Queensland border overnight while an associated low pressure circulation deepens over the Tasman Sea. A high pressure system, currently south of the Bight, will drift across southeast Australia in the trough’s wake, reaching the southern Tasman Sea by late Saturday. Winds are expected to gradually shift northerly later on the weekend as the next trough approaches from the west.
Forecast for Friday until midnight
Strong Wind Warning for Friday for Sydney Coast
Northwest to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots becoming south to southwesterly 15 to 25 knots in the morning, reaching 30 knots offshore in the evening.
1 to 1.5 metres.
1st Swell
Southerly below 1 metre, increasing to 1.5 to 2 metres during the afternoon.
2nd Swell
Northeasterly around 1 metre.
Cloudy. 20% chance of a shower in the morning and early afternoon.
Saturday 7 October
Southerly 15 to 25 knots tending south to southwesterly 10 to 15 knots early in the morning then turning southeasterly below 10 knots in the evening.
1.5 to 2.5 metres, decreasing to 1 metre during the morning.
Southerly 1.5 to 2.5 metres.
Partly cloudy.
Large and powerful surf conditions are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing.
Sunday 8 October
Variable about 10 knots becoming northerly 15 to 20 knots during the afternoon.
Below 1 metre, increasing to around 1 metre during the afternoon or evening.
Southerly 1.5 metres, increasing to 2 metres during the morning.
Partly cloudy. 30% chance of a shower.

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