Posts in Surf Reports

Back to southerly junk

Posted on February 7th, 2012 in Dee Why.


Hello Friends,

What can you say? We’re back to this summer’s pattern of unseasonably cool conditions, cloudy skies and unrelenting south to SE winds. As I tapped out these words, the swell was coming from the SE at close to three metres with an average period of 9 seconds (some 12 sec stuff in the mix too). But the wind was out of the SSE from 15-20 kts across most of Sydney. To the extent it matters, high tide was at 0740 and low will be around 1415.

The Bureau says we’re in for a shower or two through the day. And guess what? That’s pretty much the forecast for the next week. If this goes on much longer, we’ll all come down with Seasonal Affective Disorder.

If you’re super keen, you should be able to find something in the protected south corners. But the more east in that wind, the more junk even in those places.

Ah well, this too will pass friends. Have yourself a good Tuesday!

Weather Situation
A low pressure trough lies across the western Tasman Sea. The trough will move east during Wednesday and Thursday as a high pressure system moves south of The Bight extending a ridge to New South Wales north coast.
Forecast for Tuesday until midnight
Winds
South to southeasterly 15 to 20 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Easterly about 2 metres.
Wednesday 8 February
Winds
Southeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres.
Thursday 9 February
Winds
East to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots becoming easterly 15 to 20 knots during the evening.
Seas
Below 1 metre.
Swell
Southeasterly 1.5 metres.


2′ Powder Puff.

Posted on February 7th, 2012 in Collaroy.

Not much happening on the water this morning other than a fairly strong SE onshore.  From Narrabeen to Freshwater its pretty ordinary and messy.  Collaroy had a small wave around 2 foot.  Other than there I didn’t see anything to take my fancy.  A good working day.  Enjoy.  Surf Photos of You. 

 

 


Dropped and chopped

Posted on February 7th, 2012 in Manly.

At least we got one good day Swell has dropped a notch and the wind is ugly SSE. 4-5ft of choppy stuff so you need to hide in sth corner. Makes me realise I under called it yesterday. Even though I was out I didn’t realise how big it was until I saw a few shots of solid double overhead and more waves. Oh well At least it didn’t wash away the AUS open skatebowl.  They panicked last night and sandbagged it so maybe that will help push back some sand banks in front?  Longshot.

www.surfboardsdirect.com.au


Hot Hot Hot, In Byron Bay Today.

Posted on February 7th, 2012 in Byron.

Well maybe it wasn’t quite that hot, yet compared to the weather of the last few months it was like strolling around in a sauna, in Byron Bay today. Hot and humid though it was, there were waves. The water was as clear as it gets, the swell still had a little lingering size, and occasionally some even shaped up clean enough for a reasonable slide. There were a few blueys so watch out for them if you’re allergic or just averse to getting stung. Also we watched something large chase several school of fish through the lineup repeatedly, not sure what it was, as I wasn’t in the water at the time or high enough to get a clean shot of it. But suffice to say whatever it was it was large enough to have the fish freaked, In Byron Bay Today.


Swell, but southerly due before lunch

Posted on February 6th, 2012 in Dee Why.

Hello Friends,

Swell was still happening this morning. The settings are not much changed from yesterday. It’s still east at a couple metres, but the period has bumped up a touch to 11 seconds. Wind was light early, but the southerly was already chewing into spots south of Sydney as of 0700, so it’ll be here before much longer.

Tide hit high at 0700 and will be back to low at 1340.

It looks as though this is the peak of the swell energy for us this week, but then again, the swell model riffing this morning generally points to a steady supply of surfable size conditions – but with so-so to ordinary wind settings.

Gotta run to see if I can get a snap or two before it all goes pear-shaped and the dull grey skies return…

Weather Situation
A trough bringing a southerly change to the southern and central coasts this morning is linked to a low pressure system south of Tasman, while a second low lies over the central Tasman Sea. The trough is expected to remain over the northeast of the state during the next few days, while a slow-moving high near Western Australia extends a ridge to the east. Later in the week the trough is expected to deepen and move west.
Forecast for Monday until midnight
Winds
North to northwesterly 5 to 10 knots shifting southerly 20 to 30 knots in the morning then tending south to southeasterly 15 to 25 knots in the afternoon.
Seas
Up to 1.5 metres increasing up to 3 metres by midday.
Swell
Easterly 2 metres.
Tuesday 7 February
Winds
Southerly 15 to 20 knots turning southeasterly during the evening.
Seas
1 to 2 metres.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 to 3 metres.
Wednesday 8 February
Winds
South to southeasterly 10 to 15 knots.
Seas
1 to 1.5 metres.
Swell
Easterly 1.5 metres.


The Goat at Large

Posted on February 6th, 2012 in Surf Reports.

Having a wonderful time – good surf – good weather – good company – wish you all were here ??? Not… but I love yers anyway


Push (Natural Gas)

Posted on February 6th, 2012 in California, Half Moon Bay, Surf Sessions. After yesterday's overcrowded eastside session, I was looking forward to a more empty westside lineup during the Super Bowl. But the drive to Santa Cruz takes an hour, which gave me too much time to think. I was meeting Steve and his buddies Kazu and Steve (aka Stingray), all good shortboarders, and expecting overhead waves, outside of my comfort zone. I started psyching myself into a bad place: What if I can't make it to the outside? Or wipe out badly and get hurt? Or can't catch any waves? Or totally kook it up in front of these good surfers? Maybe if it looks too big, I should just go to Indicators instead. No, I have to try; if I don't push my limits, I'll never push past them. So stop being negative. You can do this! 

Boulders down the cliff to the beach
The guys were checking the surf when I arrived, noting that Ratboy was in the lineup. It always feels a little funny when I'm introduced this way: "You know the Surfergrrrl blog?" "Yeah, I read it." "Well, this is her." We walked down West Cliff Drive to check a few more breaks between Gas Chambers (also more charmingly called Naked Beach, for its warm day, low-tide beachgoers) and Natural Bridges, settling on an unnamed spot in between christened "Natural Gas" by Kazu.

To get to the little beach, we had to navigate down a jumble of big rocks piled against the cliff to protect it from erosion. It was a bit tricky, but Steve helpfully took my board over a steep bit and the last algae-slimed boulder so Rocket and I both arrived safely on the sand.
There be shorepound
Kazu and Stingray reached the beach first and had already paddled out. Steve duck-dived his way through the shorepound but it was defeating me. I waited for a lull and then paddled like mad to join them on the outside.
Kazu, Stingray, and Steve
The waves were overhead and funky with backwash. While the other guys caught a few, I wasn't getting into them, and it didn't help that the view from the top of the drop had me hanging back a little. Probably sensing my hesitation, Steve pointed out that the waves weren't that steep. He also offered that my paddling seems too relaxed, as Barry has observed. I wish I knew better how to speed myself up, to make my little hands push more water. Determined to avoid a skunking, I caught one wave but the backwash kicked my board toward me as I started to pop up. The guys rode some more waves, and then I caught one, with Steve exhorting me to "Paddle harder! Commit!" Though I didn't land the drop, as I rejoined the lineup, all three were all smiling that I'd finally gotten a wave. I tried for more without success, and a wipeout landed my ass hard on the ridge in my traction pad or perhaps the edge of the tail, raising a big bruise.
An uncommon view of the arch at Natural Bridges State Park
There were more surfers in the water than I'd expected with most of the country home watching expensive commercials and guys in tights chasing a ball around a field. But it was a sunny, almost windless, 70-degree day in winter with good swell, so I wasn't too surprised. After a time, the next peak mostly emptied and we moved over for slightly smaller but cleaner and peeling waves.
Sunset, Stingray and Steve
I had better luck at the new spot, zipping down the drop on a slightly overhead right - woo hoo! - and riding briefly until my front foot wanted to move forward on the board but couldn't, and I fell. I got another like that but smaller and shorter, and began to wonder what's going on? Rocket and I had been getting along so well for a couple of months, and now we're have this relationship issue between feet and board. Although it seems I didn't bring back malaria or dengue fever from Nicaragua, maybe I picked up some bad habit while I was surfing without booties and could easily slide my front foot. I think I need a smaller, high wave-count dawn patrol at the Jetty to get it figured out and hopefully fixed.
The sun began to set into the sea as the surface turned glassy. Kazu got the wave of the day, a long right. I hoped to redeem myself with a decent ride, but after a few more missed waves, a few more drops into wipeouts and just plain wipeouts, and it was time to go. Caught inside, I rode whitewater to the beach at Natural Bridges. The drive home gave me more time to reflect, discouraging thoughts about how I didn't ride any waves well. But I realized, I'm concentrating too much on performance and am losing sight of the reason I surf: because it's fun. It needs to be about the woo-hoo, about the awesome feeling of making the fast drop on a large wave and turning at the bottom. So then I fell, so what. It was fun! And the next times, I'll do better.
Surfline: WNW-NW (270-300+) energy continues to provide solid surf as a very small/inconsistent SW (210-225) swell moves in through the day. Fun, workable surf on tap this afternoon with light wind. Waves continue in the shoulder-head high+ range with larger sets running several feet overhead at the standout breaks. Shape has definitely sped up a bit with the dropping tide. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 9.2 ft at 13.8 s WNW 14 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 3.7 s ENE / WVHT: 9.2 ft / APD: 11.6 s / MWD: 295° (Met) WSPD: 4 kts / GST: 6 kts / WVHT: 9.2 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / WDIR: 60° / ATMP: 55.8° F / WTMP: 54.1° F. Tide: negative 0.5' rising near 1.'

Dee Why: Big.

Posted on February 6th, 2012 in Surf Reports.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plenty of uncrowded waves around just about everywhere this morning if  you have the time and the guts.  Some serious punch out there.


Here early.

Posted on February 6th, 2012 in Dee Why.

Right on 8am the southerly rolls in.  NE swell a good 4 – 6 foot but with the wind it is southern ends.  If you didn’t get out before the southerly I guessed you missed some spots.  Whale beach was shutting down.  North Avalon had a nice left.  North Narrabeen not lining up and had a few cruchy sections.  Long reef blown out.  Dee Why Point bumpy.  Enjoy.  Surf Photos of You  


Southerly Hit

Posted on February 6th, 2012 in Manly.

Southerly change just hit at 8am turning bumpy solid 4-5ft into clean waves.  Big grey rain change on the horizon so not sure if it will kill it or not. My guess is you’ll need to shelter in south corners.  As I type it’s empty, clean and pumping but that will change by the time you drive to the beach.  At dawn was bumpy and rippy so I wish I could paddle out now 10 mins ago instead of dawn.

www.surfboardsdirect.com.au


 
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